A Glimpse into the World of High Watchmaking
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Last week, WSJ. Magazine associate fashion director Rachel Besser Perry traveled to Geneva for the annual Watches & Wonders trade fair, where luxury watchmakers debut their latest offerings for editors, executives and avid collectors. Below, she shares what it’s actually like on the fairgrounds, the trends she was noticing and the timepieces she’s still fantasizing about.
What Exactly Is Watches & Wonders?
Watches & Wonders is essentially the fashion week of high watchmaking—a massive trade fair held annually in Geneva where the world’s biggest luxury watch houses unveil their most important new releases. Brands like Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe and Hermès use it to debut everything from technical innovations to trendsetting design directions.
Observing the Details
As a fashion editor on the fairgrounds, I was on the lookout for specific details that could tell a story. I wasn’t focused on specs for specs’ sake but rather on the storytelling around the watches. How brands are constructing a world around these objects and what that says about luxury right now was fascinating. I also paid close attention to recurring visual themes—smaller proportions, jewelry-inspired details, vintage references—and how brands are trying to speak to a younger, more style-conscious collector who may care as much about design language and self-expression as they do about movement architecture.
Surprises at the Fair
This was actually my first time physically attending the fair, and what surprised me most was the emotional intensity around watches in person. Online, luxury watches can feel very technical or transactional, but at the fair you realize how theatrical and tactile the entire industry is. There’s an incredible level of craftsmanship packed into objects that are only millimeters thick, and seeing collectors, executives and editors obsess over tiny nuances opened a new understanding as to why these pieces inspire such devotion.
Trends to Watch in 2026
As someone who has worn a Rolex Submariner since 2013, I’ve really enjoyed seeing the line between men’s and women’s watches continue to dissolve. One of the clearest trends at the fair was the move toward smaller, more refined proportions, with many brands intentionally presenting watches as something that could be worn by anyone rather than rigidly segmented by gender.
A Watch That Stands Out
Was there one watch that really stood out to me—perhaps one I’m fantasizing about for my own collection? Two watches everyone kept circling back to were definitely the Cartier Privé Crash Squelette and the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 39.5MM Platinum from Vacheron Constantin.
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