A Journey of Guilt, Glory, and the Sherpa Legacy
Nepal, Dec. 27 — Guilt and Glory: Climbing with Sherpas is a compelling narrative by Jon Gangdal, an individual who has spent over three decades in the mountains, working closely with Sherpas. The book opens with a vivid scene at a Sherpa wedding in Kathmandu. The bride, Pasang Diki, takes the author’s hand, expressing gratitude for his presence, and says, “My family is complete.” This moment of joy becomes a poignant reflection on the past, as the author recalls how her father, Mingma Norbu Sherpa, lost his life in an avalanche during the author’s first expedition to Mount Everest in 1994.
The tragedy left the author with a deep sense of guilt, which he attributes to his obsession with climbing Everest. This emotional weight lingers, but the marriage symbolizes a step toward forgiveness and letting go. It is fascinating to witness how such personal guilt can evolve into a story of triumph and reconciliation.
The Origins and Identity of the Sherpa People
The book delves into the history of the Sherpa people, tracing their migration from Kham in eastern Tibet nearly 500 years ago to the fertile valleys of northern Nepal. The term ‘Sherpa’ is derived from ‘shar,’ meaning ‘east,’ and ‘pa,’ meaning ‘people.’ Thus, a Sherpa is not merely a porter or builder of stone steps, but someone belonging to the ‘eastern people’ or ‘people from the east.’
The narrative becomes more engaging when the author discusses Guru Rinpoche, a spiritual figure who introduced Vajrayana, or Tantric Buddhism, to Tibet and other regions of North Asia. The author also uses the storm metaphor to represent the yeti, a mythical creature still steeped in local folklore. He describes a moment where, “Inside the storm, he believed there was a yeti hand that pushed him so hard in the chest that he lost his balance and fell.”
Cultural and Historical Insights
In another section, the author contrasts the Gorkha and Sherpa, highlighting their respective strengths. While Gorkhas are known for their bravery on the battlefield, Sherpas are celebrated for their mountaineering skills. The term ‘Gorkha’ refers to a profession encompassing individuals from various ethnic backgrounds, while ‘Sherpa’ denotes a specific population.
The book also explores the evolving dynamics between Sherpas and foreign climbers, noting how the historical master-servant relationship has become more balanced. This shift is exemplified in the chapter titled ‘When the Sherpas Couped K2.’ During the 2019/2020 winter, an expedition was called off after reaching Camp 2 at 6,800 meters, partly due to health issues. Snorri, one of the climbers, noted on Instagram that summiting K2 in winter is a formidable challenge requiring teamwork. However, Mingma G and three other Sherpas, along with a Chinese climber, indicated they were not fully prepared for the climb.
Reflecting on this situation, Mingma G observed that when expeditions succeed, credit is often claimed, but when they fail, blame is frequently shifted onto others. This incident underscores a broader truth: almost every major expedition relies heavily on Sherpa expertise and labor.
The Legacy of Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary
The book also examines the complex relationship between Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, as well as Hillary’s contributions to the Sherpa community. Tenzing was particularly upset by Hillary’s portrayal in his book, The Conquest of Everest, which described the final steep section just below the summit as the ‘Hillary Step.’ Hillary’s account made it seem as if Tenzing had done most of the climbing and had practically pulled Hillary to the top. Tenzing disliked this imagery, saying, “Since then, I have heard plenty about the ‘fish,’ and I admit I do not like it.”
Over time, Sherpas have gained greater recognition for their contributions to climbing expeditions compared to earlier periods when they were often denied the opportunity to summit. For the author, this chapter marks a pivotal turning point for the Sherpas, who now lead expeditions, having acquired additional education and experience.
Maslow’s Theory and the Role of Sherpas
During a conversation at Vajra Books, the author explained the chapter ‘With Maslow to Manaslu.’ In it, Maslow’s theory is used as a metaphor: reaching the summit represents self-actualisation, the highest level in Maslow’s hierarchy of needs. The chapter notes that Sherpas manage around 80 percent of the expedition business, placing them at the very top of this metaphorical pyramid, highlighting their essential role in mountaineering success.
International Relations and Development
The book also highlights the people-to-people relations between Norway and Nepal. The author, being Norwegian, often visits Nepal, and Sherpas from Nepal travel to Norway to work as seasonal workers during the summer. Additionally, the Norwegian government has been contributing to Nepal’s development process, including a USD 135,000 contribution through the Development Fund for a feasibility study on the Gauri Shankar Conservation Area.
First published in Norway in 2023 in the Norwegian language and later released in 2025 in English by Vajra Publications in Nepal, the book explores the everyday reality of the Sherpas. Through rich historical material and the author’s own experiences with life and death at altitude, he elevates the Sherpas from the shadows of Himalayan climbing.
Illustrated with pictures, maps, and references, the book is rich in content, much like a mountain, while the language flows smoothly like a river across its six hundred pages.
