The South Pacific has long held an allure for travellers seeking sun-drenched escapes, and for three long-time friends, Rarotonga in the Cook Islands proved to be the perfect destination for a much-needed reunion and a celebration of enduring friendship. Far from the bustling crowds of more well-trodden tropical locales, Rarotonga offers a unique blend of laid-back charm, natural beauty, and genuine hospitality that captivated this group of friends.
Their chosen haven, Connie’s Place near Muri village, was affectionately dubbed “a candy shop for menopausal women.” The description, while tongue-in-cheek, held a kernel of truth. Imagine this: the gentle, cooling breeze drifting in from the South Pacific, mere metres from a spacious verandah, providing instant relief from any unwelcome hot flushes. Add to that a fleet of paddle boards and kayaks, sparking thoughts of re-activating dormant cores over the coming days, and an endless supply of fresh coconut juice, a natural elixir for rapid rehydration. For good measure, a generous bottle of gin and plenty of ice completed the picture, solidifying the notion that this was indeed a thoughtfully curated retreat.
This holiday marked a significant milestone for the three friends, Susie, Annabel, and the writer. It was their second overseas adventure together in nearly 50 years of friendship, a bond forged in primary school. This time, however, the trip was a deliberate escape from the relentless demands of careers, mortgages, and blended families. With their mothers now in a stable phase of life, they seized the opportunity to reconnect and rejuvenate.
Their first international escapade, a trip to Koh Samui in Thailand back in 1992, was a stark contrast. At just 23, brimming with the youthful exuberance of Sydney’s lower north shore, they found a destination on the cusp of transformation. Their days were filled with island-hopping, indulging in generous portions of street food without a second thought for their waistlines, and lingering in outdoor nightclubs with evocative names. The air was thick with the scent of late-night revelry, a far cry from the serene atmosphere they sought this time around.
Back then, Susie, the most adventurous of the trio, embraced activities like paragliding, surfing, and jet-skiing, often encouraging daytime drinking in bikinis while Annabel and the writer attempted to keep pace. Their memories of Thailand were tinged with the faint aroma of cannabis, a slightly rebellious undertone to their youthful explorations, coupled with reckless motorbike rides and a penchant for accumulating cheap silk souvenirs from markets that, in retrospect, were likely tourist traps.
This time, their holiday wish list was refreshingly simple: a direct flight with minimal transit, wholesome fresh food that wouldn’t cause discomfort, and a single, comfortable bed for the entire nine-night stay, allowing for early nights. The agenda eschewed motorised scooters in favour of a reliable hired hatchback, supplemented by the local bus network. Even the idea of tackling one activity a day was debated, with Susie playfully chiding them for being “pathetic,” asserting that a one-hour massage certainly didn’t qualify as strenuous “activity.”
The shared desire for a “flop-and-drop” holiday in an entirely new destination, a place where they could celebrate their decades-long friendship with ample SPF50+ and sensible swimwear, united them. Evenings were envisioned as peaceful affairs filled with games of Bananagrams and relaxed Netflix viewing.
The journey to Rarotonga was a direct, overnight flight from Sydney, a mere 5½ hours. Stepping onto the tarmac, they couldn’t help but muse about their transformation into “midlife clichés.” Yet, within minutes of their passports being stamped, they were embraced by the languid rhythm of Cook Islands life. The cheerful car hire attendant’s instructions – “Just drive out of the airport, turn left and follow the signs for turtle safaris to get to your villa” – set the tone for their island immersion.
Arriving at Connie’s Place, also known as Aramoana on the Beach, on the island’s southern end, they were greeted by the owner, Connie herself, who had generously prepared a substantial breakfast. Later, Connie checked in, enquiring about their enjoyment of the meal, explaining that her cousin had prepared it. This act of kindness was a testament to the renowned hospitality of the Cook Islands, with enough leftover food to provide them with hearty fry-ups for the remainder of the week.
Upon learning of their five-decade-long friendship, Connie extended a warm invitation to join her at a women’s tourism awards night at the Islander Hotel & Hula Bar, and even mentioned her regular Friday night outings with friends to the Tamarind House Ukulele Bar.
The week unfolded into a therapeutic blur of reading, snorkelling in crystal-clear waters, and savouring coconut juice straight from the husk. While many travellers opt for the more secluded Aitutaki, a short flight away, the friends found themselves firmly captivated by Rarotonga. Although they took a day trip to Aitutaki, marvelling at the beauty of One Foot Island and its lagoon, they remained devoted to Rarotonga’s unique charm. They appreciated its relaxed, rooster-controlled timetable, the warmth of its locals, and the abundance of family-run roadside stalls offering fresh produce.
A daily pilgrimage to Black Rock Beach became a ritual, particularly after discovering the Vibe Fish Van, renowned for its freshly grilled fish, salad, and chips. The Punanga Nui Markets, held every Saturday morning, were another highlight, showcasing local food, fabrics, and skincare products.
During their explorations, they encountered a group of fellow Sydney mothers on a similar “friendsmoon,” and shared the experience of posing for photographs at the picturesque Maire Nui Gardens & Cafe. A hike up Te Rua Manga, affectionately known as the Needle, offered stunning panoramic views, though only Susie managed to conquer the summit. A leisurely afternoon at Essential Spa (which, according to Susie, didn’t count as an “activity”) was followed by tapas at BJ’s Bar, a delightful waterfront establishment.
An educational turtle safari with Ariki Adventures provided fascinating insights into the marine life, and extensive drives around the island allowed them to visit popular landmarks such as the Te Ara museum, the historic 1905 Banana Court (Rarotonga’s first hotel), and Tivaevae Collectables, a treasure trove of local arts, crafts, and clothing.
As their stay drew to a close, Connie’s cousin Rangi arrived to prepare an unforgettable feast. With the assistance of their niece, Charlee, they presented a culinary journey that celebrated local flavours. Dishes included karori ceviche, uto pancakes with parrot fish sashimi, venevene chicken with a berry and pomegranate marinade, rukau (taro leaves cooked in coconut cream), a variety of salads, pan-fried fish, and succulent roast pork belly. The meal concluded with a refreshing lemon and coconut ice-cream and fruit salad.
Returning to reality and the welcoming embrace of their husbands, who were visibly relieved by their safe return from this “mature-aged lady paradise,” the friends shared an extra-long hug in the Arrivals hall. The celebration of nearly 50 years of friendship was, they agreed, worth every penny. Moreover, they had become honorary members of the “Raro sisterhood.”
