A Hidden Gem in the Atherton Tablelands
Nestled an hour inland from Cairns on the Atherton Tablelands, Yungaburra is a charming rural village that offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and community spirit. Before arriving in this quaint town, we had spent three days exploring some of Far North Queensland’s most picturesque beaches, chasing waterfalls and seeking out a tiny house perched on a hill. Our journey along the Kennedy Highway led us to a honey vending machine in a dusty Biboohra paddock and into the cozy atmosphere of Mareeba’s Coffee Works roastery. As we pulled into Yungaburra, it felt like a delightful surprise.
Yungaburra, which means “meeting place” in the local Dulgubarra Yidinji language, was once home to about 16 different First Nations groups. The town is built on the basalt plains formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, creating fertile land that supports the region’s agriculture. One of the highlights of Yungaburra is its bustling market, held every fourth Saturday with 260 stallholders. The main street is adorned with hanging flowerpots maintained for over a decade by the town’s Beautification Committee.
A Unique Retail Experience
Upon arriving mid-afternoon, we expected quiet shopfronts and a sleepy main strip. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find a vibrant atmosphere. After exploring Spencer and Murphy Booksellers, housed in a cavernous shed filled with books stacked in nooks and crannies, we discovered Pluto & Nessie, a game store owned and run by second-generation Yungaburra local Sophie Thomas.
Sophie greets visitors from behind her Queensland silky oak counter, offering a curated selection of puzzles from France and American card decks, alongside lesser-known sets sourced directly from individual makers and indie publishers. Her store is a response to the town’s limited evening entertainment options. “Yungaburra and the Tablelands have amazing lakes and waterfalls, nature walks and wildlife, but at night or if it’s pouring down, there isn’t really much to do besides go to the pub,” she explains.
Not anymore. Sophie hosts board-game nights, bringing locals and visitors together to play Dungeons & Dragons, mahjong, and participate in senior social events. She emphasizes the quality of her puzzles, ensuring they are eco-friendly and come with a “missing piece service.” After chatting with Sophie and watching her demonstrate how games can be played, we left with a 99-piece Turkish-made puzzle and a quick card game.
Heritage and Local Culture
Yungaburra is home to Queensland’s largest collection of heritage-listed buildings outside regional centres. There are 18 listed on the Queensland Heritage Register and 24 historic buildings on the Old Town Loop trail. One notable stop is Winter & Mann, a providore and homewares store celebrating North Queensland “and beyond.”
Owners Stuart Mann and Anna Winter were restocking shelves when we visited. Stuart showed us timber cutting boards made by Mahavira, a former sparkie who uses electricity to create branch-like patterns on the wood’s surface before filling them with fluorescent resin. We opted for Davidson plum-studded chocolate and postcards instead, plus Stuart’s recommendation to check out Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy the next day.
That night, we watched the stars spill over rolling hills while completing Sophie’s puzzle and nibbling our new chocolate. The next day, we ventured out on the Waterfall Circuit to splash beneath the falling cascade at Millaa Millaa Falls.
Exploring More of Yungaburra
After a refuel at Mungalli, where we enjoyed scones and to-go quark, we drove back to Pluto & Nessie. Sophie looked at us knowingly when we wandered in to tell her we needed another puzzle—and heck, while we’re at it, another game. She eagerly showed us her favourites.
Her passion is infectious, and we left only to head down past the Federation-style timber Yungaburra Hotel to Mr Belson, a cafe at Cedrella, a residence built in 1912 by the town’s former wood mill manager, Charles Belson. We sat at outdoor tables made of narrow, thick timber slabs, opened the box, and spread chips out as potted pansies and petunias swayed in the gentle high-altitude breeze.
Considering the unexpected route to get here, we were pretty happy with the cards we’d been dealt.
Travel Tips
- Fly: Qantas, Jetstar, and Virgin all operate daily direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Cairns.
- Drive: Yungaburra is an hour’s drive south-west of Cairns. Rent a car from Bargain Car Rentals just outside Cairns Airport.
- Do: The Yungaburra Markets run until 12.30pm. Visit yungaburramarkets.com for more information.
