Fishermen and seafarers, a community steeped in tradition and superstition, understand the inherent dangers of their workplace. This deep respect for the unpredictable nature of the sea translates into a wealth of maritime lore, where seemingly minor actions can be seen as omens, potentially angering the ocean’s powerful deities. Among these beliefs, the ritualistic renaming of a vessel demands a formal ceremony, a safeguard against displeasing the sea gods. The simple act of passing a salt shaker between passengers is also taboo; instead, it must be placed on the table for others to retrieve. And then there’s the infamous prohibition against bringing bananas aboard a ship – a culinary superstition that carries significant weight.
While the ancient texts of sea lore might not explicitly detail governmental intervention, it’s safe to say that Western Australia’s seafood industry has recently faced a storm of its own with the controversial demersal fishing ban. This regulation has not only severed the livelihoods of countless commercial fishers but has also cast a long shadow over anyone who savours the taste of dhufish, red emperor, nannygai, and other sought-after species from the state’s southwest.
Enter Scott Bridger, a chef whose career and personal life have been profoundly impacted by this turn of events. Tragically, his meticulously planned opening of Pearla & Co, a polished seafood restaurant, coincided precisely with the announcement of the ban in early December. Facing such a comically ill-fated omen, Bridger could have easily abandoned his plans. However, instead of succumbing to the setback, he chose to persevere, rolling up his sleeves, taking a deep breath, and sticking to his vision.
The result is a dining establishment that, just two months into its operation, is already poised to become a significant culinary destination along WA’s coastline. For those familiar with Bridger’s culinary journey, his impressive resume includes stints at Rockpool Bar & Grill and, for the past thirteen years, the acclaimed Bib & Tucker. His new venture, Pearla & Co, benefits from a prime location, conveniently situated a short walk from Bib & Tucker’s prominent address at Leighton Beach. The restaurant occupies the former premises of the popular designer boho bar, Al Lupo.
The transformation from its previous incarnation is striking. The warm timber accents and the sunken front bar of Al Lupo have been replaced by a sophisticated aesthetic. Sleek black furnishings dominate the space, complemented by the subtle shimmer of chainmail curtains and understated design elements that pay homage to the ocean. Starkly set tables are artfully contrasted with an array of coastal plants, creating an atmosphere of refined elegance. The walls are adorned with striking Japanese gyotaku art, a unique form of whole-fish imprinting that captures the essence of marine life.
Adding to the restaurant’s unique appeal, real whole fish are prominently displayed in dedicated dry-ageing fridges. Their flesh intensifies in colour and texture, transforming into something that one dining companion described, with admiration, as “almost don’t look real.” This dry-ageing process, however, is far more than just an aesthetic enhancement. It significantly elevates the flavour and texture of the fish, a testament to Bridger’s commitment to showcasing the quality of the seafood and honouring the hard work of the fishermen – the “and Co” in the restaurant’s name, with “Pearla” itself being a loving nod to Bridger’s grandmother, Pearl Bridger.
The menu at Pearla & Co offers a tantalizing exploration of premium seafood. Supple, ruby-red slices of aged Rottnest Island tuna loin are presented alongside their cured watermelon counterparts, creating a visually stunning and palate-pleasing combination. Thick steaks of swordfish are coated in crisp panko breadcrumbs and expertly fried, transforming into pearlescent-centred cotoletta that melts in the mouth.
The Impact of the Ban on Local Fisheries
The fishing community has felt the brunt of the recent demersal ban. Anthony Heslewood, a Busselton fisherman operating Revolution Fisheries, was a regular supplier of line-caught pink snapper and other prized species to Pearla & Co before the ban. The new regulations have forced him to relocate his operations to Albany, a move that significantly increases travel time and fuel costs. Consequently, the fish he now catches are naturally more expensive, reflecting the increased operational expenses.
Innovative Approaches to Seafood Sustainability
Despite the challenges, Bridger and his team are demonstrating remarkable ingenuity in their approach to seafood sourcing and preparation. Dishes like grilled hapuka, cooked over charcoal – a signature cooking method for much of the restaurant’s seafood – are priced at $75. While acknowledging that premium ingredients command premium prices, Bridger believes a skilled chef can elevate less-than-premium cuts to create exceptional dishes. He is yet to feature special cuts like tuna collars or hapuka livers on the menu, but the potential for whole-fish butchery to minimise waste and maximise flavour is evident.
The kitchen’s commitment to sustainability and culinary creativity is further highlighted by dishes such as:
- Shredded confit swordfish belly: Transformed into a spicy and flavourful ‘nduja, showcasing a bold and innovative use of a often-overlooked cut.
- Grilled leatherjacket: This by-catch fish is presented as a meaty fillet swimming in a sharp beurre blanc, a delightful example of making the most of available resources.
- Barbecued prawns: Served with a surprisingly delightful “prawn cracker” made from the fried legs of the prawns themselves, prompting the question: have diners been discarding the most flavourful part of the prawn all along?
- Tartares: Trimmings from portioning fillets are ingeniously upcycled into various tartares, demonstrating a zero-waste philosophy.
A Well-Rounded Dining Experience
While seafood is undoubtedly the star of the show at Pearla & Co, the restaurant offers a comprehensive and satisfying dining experience. The golden frites boast the perfect waxy, fried potato texture that diners crave, even if they haven’t articulated it before. The house fougasse, served with smoked butter, is the ideal accompaniment for sopping up every last drop of delicious sauce.
The beverage program is equally impressive. Bar manager Parker De Foe has crafted a selection of classy cocktails that perfectly complement the menu. The wine list, though concise, is packed with interesting choices. However, red wine enthusiasts might appreciate a few more approachable by-the-glass options.
Bridger has leveraged his extensive network to assemble a stellar service team. These professionals clearly possess a deep understanding and passion for their craft, contributing to an enjoyable dining environment for both staff and patrons. Pearla & Co has launched with a remarkable level of polish and sophistication, leaving diners eager to witness and taste its future evolution.
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