Derm’s Top 8 Hair Sins: Avoid These At All Costs

The health and appearance of your hair can profoundly influence your overall confidence. When your locks are looking fantastic, it’s a sure-fire way to put a spring in your step. Conversely, a bad hair day can lead to constant grimaces every time you catch your reflection.

A truly effective way to achieve that coveted hair boost is by focusing on the underlying health of your hair. Instead of dedicating hours solely to styling and colouring, a more holistic approach involves rebuilding the natural strength and condition of your hair from within. Dr Sharon Wong, a Consultant Dermatologist and co-founder of DOSE, is an expert in this area, offering valuable insights into maintaining optimal hair health.

Dr Wong has highlighted several practices that can be detrimental to your hair, ranging from everyday products that might seem helpful but are actually causing harm, to dietary missteps that can weaken your strands.

The Worst Hair Habits to Ditch

Here’s a breakdown of common habits that can negatively impact your hair’s health and appearance:

1. Tight Hairstyles Worn Constantly

  • The Problem: Wearing your hair in tight ponytails, braids, or other styles repetitively and for extended periods can exert significant pulling force and tension on the hair follicles. Over time, this can lead to inflammation and scarring, ultimately resulting in permanent patches of hair loss known as traction alopecia.
  • The Solution: Opt for looser hairstyles or reduce the frequency and duration you wear tight styles. While an occasional tight style for a special occasion is generally fine, consistent tension will cause cumulative trauma to your hair and recurrent inflammation to the follicles. A key indicator that a style is too tight is persistent scalp pain that only subsides when you release your hair.

2. Using Oil to Moisturise Your Scalp

  • The Problem: Many people believe that applying oils directly to the scalp is beneficial for moisture. However, oils can form an occlusive film over the scalp’s skin, leading to the clogging of hair follicles. This can trigger acne-like spots or scalp folliculitis and can also attract more debris and dead skin cells, exacerbating flaking and itching. Your scalp naturally produces its own oils, so additional oils are often unnecessary.
  • The Solution: For scalp hydration, consider ingredients like hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, or glycerin. These are humectants, meaning they attract water to the skin’s surface and are non-comedogenic, thus less likely to block pores.

3. Applying Heat Straighteners to Wet Hair

  • The Problem: Applying high heat directly to wet hair is a recipe for disaster. The water molecules within the hair shaft turn into steam when exposed to intense heat. This steam expands rapidly inside the hair fibre, causing structural deformities known as “bubble hair.” These weakened structures make the hair significantly more prone to breakage.
  • The Solution: Hair straighteners should ideally be used on dry hair. Always use the lowest effective heat setting and, crucially, apply a heat protectant spray or serum beforehand. While hair dryers can also pose a risk, they are generally less damaging because they are used from a distance. Straighteners, on the other hand, have hot plates in direct contact with the hair. Similarly, hair drying brushes tend to operate at lower temperatures and diffuse heat, unlike the direct clamping action of straighteners. For all heat styling, the rule of thumb is to use the lowest heat setting possible and always protect your hair.

4. Crash Dieting and Insufficient Protein Intake

  • The Problem: Your hair is primarily composed of keratin, which is a protein (approximately 95%). A diet lacking in sufficient protein deprives your body of the essential building blocks needed for strong, healthy hair. Furthermore, adequate calorie intake is vital to maintain the highly active hair follicle cells responsible for hair production. Crash dieting and a lack of protein can lead to hair shedding, poor hair growth, and weaker strands.
  • The Solution: If you’re undergoing significant weight loss, including through methods that reduce appetite, ensure the foods you consume are nutrient-dense and rich in protein. If dietary intake remains inadequate, consider protein supplements specifically formulated to support hair growth.

5. Excessive Use of Bleaches and Dyes

  • The Problem: Bleaches and dyes expose your hair to harsh chemicals that break down the chemical bonds responsible for its structural integrity and resilience. Repeated use of these treatments will inevitably make your hair brittle and susceptible to breakage.
  • The Solution: Space out your colouring and bleaching treatments to make them less frequent. Incorporating bond-repairing products into your hair care routine can also help minimise the damage caused by chemical treatments.

6. Sleeping with Wet Hair

  • The Problem: A damp scalp creates a warm, moist environment that is ideal for the growth of surface bacteria and yeasts. This imbalance in your scalp’s microbiome can lead to various issues, including dermatitis, flaking, and folliculitis.
  • The Solution: Ensure your scalp is completely dry before going to sleep.

7. Using Dry Shampoo and Not Washing It Out

  • The Problem: Dry shampoo contains starches designed to absorb sweat, moisture, and dead skin cells, giving your hair a fresher look and texture. However, if this byproduct isn’t washed out, it can accumulate on the scalp, potentially blocking hair follicles or leading to irritation and flaking.
  • The Solution: Ideally, wash out dry shampoo on the same day it’s used. If you rely on dry shampoo regularly, consider using a clarifying shampoo once a week for a deep cleanse.

8. Taking Supplements Without a Deficiency

  • The Problem: There is currently no proven scientific evidence to suggest that taking supplements like biotin will improve hair growth if you do not have a deficiency. In fact, over-supplementing with biotin can skew the results of important blood tests, including those for thyroid hormones and heart health indicators.
  • The Solution: Consult with a healthcare professional and consider getting blood tests to identify any deficiencies before starting any supplements. Only supplement what is necessary and what you cannot achieve through a balanced diet.

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