Rodd & Gunn Reimagines Retail: A Melbourne Masterclass in Hospitality and Style
The concept of retail, often declared to be on its last legs, is proving to be remarkably resilient, particularly when it’s reimagined as more than just a place to buy clothes. In a bold move that’s reshaping a prominent Melbourne landmark, New Zealand clothing company Rodd & Gunn has transformed a striking Commercial Gothic building, originally erected in 1929 for G.J. Coles as a bustling variety store, into a multi-faceted hospitality and retail destination. For decades, the building served as a distinctly masculine extension of David Jones, but now, Rodd & Gunn has breathed new life into its historic walls, creating an experience that even a staunch shopping-averse individual might find surprisingly appealing.
The reimagined space is a testament to architectural sensitivity and a sophisticated understanding of customer experience. Ascending a grand marble staircase on the first level reveals “The Lodge,” a refined fine-dining restaurant. Below this, the mezzanine level houses the Member’s Bar. While formal membership isn’t a prerequisite, the plush leather couches and sophisticated ambiance certainly evoke a sense of exclusive indulgence. The ground floor, far from being a conventional retail space, is presented as more than just a place to purchase apparel; it’s framed as an avenue for investing in personal identity, a far cry from the utilitarian notion of simply buying a shirt.
The basement level is a treasure trove for gourmands and oenophiles alike, boasting a substantial wine store and a charming bistro complete with inviting booths perfect for enjoying pasta and polpette. Despite a general cynicism towards the concept of brand proliferation and extension, the sheer loveliness and cohesive execution of this multi-level venue are undeniable.
A Culinary Haven: The Lodge and Its Delights
The Lodge is envisioned as a sanctuary for delightful lunches and leisurely dinners. One can easily picture patrons savouring exquisite cocktails, indulging in delicately crafted mackerel “cigars,” and selecting decadent chocolate truffles from a tray presented by a welcoming and knowledgeable waiter. The interior design masterfully blends the building’s heritage with contemporary elegance. Art Deco wall tiles, once hidden and deteriorating behind shirt racks, have been meticulously restored. Plush velvet banquettes now complement tables set with crisp white linen, all bathed in the natural light streaming through soaring arched windows. While the daytime illumination is superb, the after-dark lighting could benefit from a softer touch. Nevertheless, the overall effect is a glorious and architecturally sensitive reincarnation of a significant city landmark.
The culinary offerings at The Lodge are both classic and artfully presented, with subtle yet delightful flourishes. Evidence of quality is apparent in the use of premium ingredients, the expert seasoning, the masterful saucing, and the thoughtful composition of each dish.
Complimentary Bread: The complimentary bread service is a standout, featuring fluffy, crown-shaped brioche brushed with a rich caramel derived from reduced vegetable scraps – so good, it’s worth paying for.
Small Bites: For those seeking lighter fare or pre-dinner nibbles, the small bites are a revelation. The beetroot meringue, layered with a zesty horseradish mousse, is a visually stunning and palate-pleasing option. These can be enjoyed in the restaurant or the bar, perhaps paired with a “Forest Forage” martini, garnished with the subtle peppery notes of pink peppercorn leaves.
Eel Entrée: While eel might be a challenging ingredient for some, Rodd & Gunn’s preparation is exceptional. The smoked eel is transformed into a rich parfait, served alongside a vibrant medley of summer tomatoes and finished with a tableside pour of clarified tomato consommé.
Culinary Creativity and Memorable Desserts
The main courses continue to impress with their refined execution and thoughtful presentation.
- Great Ocean Duck: The free-range Great Ocean Duck is a prime example. It’s served as a beautifully glazed, roasted breast, while the leg and offal are ingeniously repurposed into a mini sausage roll. This detail adds a touch of playful charm, akin to an untucked shirt on an otherwise impeccably dressed mannequin.
Desserts at Rodd & Gunn are where creativity and technical skill truly shine, leaving a lasting impression. Among the many exquisite dishes sampled, the fennel and apricot tea cake stands out as a particular highlight. Its perfectly balanced layers, a persistent moisture that prevented any hint of heaviness, the satisfying crunch of the fennel crumb, and the luxurious Earl Grey cream that elegantly tied everything together made it an unforgettable finale. It’s a dish that prompts the question: how truly wonderful can cake be?
A Bold Vision for Melbourne
Rodd & Gunn’s ambitious undertaking in Melbourne is a resounding success. The polish, the evident skill, and the remarkably diverse range of offerings are impossible to ignore. While it’s a far cry from the utilitarian variety store envisioned by G.J. Coles in 1929, one can only imagine that the retail pioneer would have admired the vision, the optimism, and perhaps, even, the innovative beetroot meringue.
