The Timeless Kimono: A Sustainable Icon Reimagined for the Modern Wardrobe
The kimono, an iconic garment steeped in centuries of Japanese tradition, is experiencing a remarkable renaissance. Far from being a relic of the past, this elegant attire is now being celebrated for a quality that resonates deeply in today’s environmentally conscious world: its inherent sustainability. A true silk kimono, a garment literally meaning “worn thing,” possesses an extraordinary lifespan, often enduring for a century or more. These exquisite pieces are frequently passed down through generations of Japanese families, cherished as precious heirlooms akin to fine jewellery or valuable artworks, their timeless style never fading.
The fundamental design of the kimono, including its distinctive “obi” sash, has remained remarkably consistent since the Edo period of the 17th century, a style vividly captured in the sweeping narratives of Akira Kurosawa’s samurai films. However, a vibrant new wave of creativity is sweeping through the fashion landscape. Designers are now breathing new life into these traditional garments, deconstructing and ingeniously reassembling them into contemporary jackets, chic dresses, and stylish trousers.
“I noticed that a lot of beautiful kimono were just sleeping in people’s closets. That’s such a waste,” explains Mari Kubo, who spearheads a kimono-remake business known as K’Forward. Hers is one of a growing number of services dedicated to transforming these treasured textiles. Beyond clothing, these enterprises also craft items like tote bags and decorative dolls from discarded kimonos.
Among Kubo’s most sought-after creations are pieces derived from “tomesode,” a formal type of kimono characterised by its black base adorned with vibrant, embroidered motifs of flowers, birds, or foliage concentrated at the hem. She also specialises in creating coordinated sets, which she terms “set-ups.” A tomesode, for example, might be reimagined as a striking jacket, preserving its flowing sleeves while strategically placing its intricate patterns on the centre back. A complementary kimono with a matching design is then transformed into a skirt or trousers to complete the ensemble. Often, a piece of obi is artfully incorporated into the collar, adding a delightful pop of colour and texture.
Kubo notes that a significant portion of her clientele comprises younger individuals eager to embrace the aesthetic of the kimono without the traditional complexities of wearing one. The cost of a remade kimono at K’Forward can vary considerably. A “furisode,” a resplendent kimono with long, flowing sleeves intended for young, unmarried women, can command prices of up to 160,000 yen (approximately AUD $1,700). In contrast, a remade black tomesode typically retails for around 25,000 yen (approximately AUD $270).
Embracing Reuse and Recycling: An Ecological Imperative
Tomoko Ohkata, a designer whose work focuses on repurposing old kimonos, articulates a profound satisfaction in her craft, stemming from the absence of ecological guilt and the feeling of actively contributing to solving an environmental dilemma. “I feel the answer was right there, being handed down from our ancestors,” she muses.
The sheer volume of discarded kimonos entering recycling centres across Japan is staggering, with thousands arriving daily. This influx is largely due to people discovering these garments tucked away in the wardrobes of parents and grandparents. In contemporary Japan, kimonos are predominantly reserved for very special occasions, such as weddings. Increasingly, many women opt for Western-style white wedding dresses, or sometimes choose to wear both.
Many of Ohkata’s clients are individuals who have unearthed a kimono within their own homes and are keen to bestow upon it a new purpose. She highlights that these customers place significant value on the narrative woven into the fabric of each kimono. Her intimate boutique in the heart of Tokyo showcases a diverse collection of exquisite dolls. Among them are figures of a samurai and his wife, traditionally displayed in Japanese homes during the Girls’ Day festival in March. Ohkata’s dolls, however, are distinctively attired in meticulously crafted, miniature kimonos fashioned from recycled fabrics. A pair of these unique dolls, dressed in their recycled finery, sells for a substantial 245,000 yen (approximately AUD $2,600).
The Art of Wearing the Kimono: Rediscovery and Personal Expression
Beyond the trend of remaking, the original, traditional kimono itself is also experiencing a resurgence in appreciation. Nao Shimizu, who leads a school in Kyoto, Japan’s historic former capital, dedicated to teaching the art of wearing a kimono and the accompanying deportment, observes, “Unlike a dress, you can arrange it.”
“In half a year, you can learn how to do it all by yourself,” she states, fluidly demonstrating various methods of tying the obi to convey different emotions, from playful exuberance to subtle elegance. Shimizu further elaborates that the kimono’s inherent versatility, in addition to its renowned durability, contributes significantly to its sustainable appeal. She notes with amusement that younger generations in Japan are adopting a more relaxed approach, sometimes pairing kimonos with boots, a departure from the traditional zori sandals.
While mastering the traditional method of donning a kimono requires a degree of skill, individuals can avail themselves of lessons from experienced teachers like Shimizu, much like learning a musical instrument. Professional assistance is also readily accessible through beauty salons, hotels, and select retail establishments. Although the majority of Japanese people may only wear a kimono a handful of times in their lives, the experience is invariably memorable.
Sumie Kaneko, a gifted singer who performs using traditional Japanese instruments like the koto and shamisen, frequently graces the stage in dazzling outfits crafted from recycled kimonos. She firmly believes that the concept of sustainability is deeply embedded within Japanese culture, pointing out the increasing scarcity of materials like ivory and animal hide, which are integral to her musical instruments. Kaneko eloquently describes this as “the recycling of life.”
“The performer breathes new life into them,” she affirms, speaking from her base in New York. “In the same way, a past moment — and those patterns and colours that were once loved — can come back to life.”
