Beyond the Beaches: Unearthing Tenerife’s Northern Charms
While Tenerife’s sun-drenched southern shores and affordable resorts are a well-trodden path for holidaymakers, a seasoned local suggests a compelling reason to venture north: a treasure trove of authentic experiences and hidden gems. Natasha Mooney, a dedicated travel advisor with over a decade of experience exploring the Canary Islands, has found her home away from home in Güímar, nestled in Tenerife’s verdant north.
“I’ve spent more than ten years as a TUI travel advisor, and now I’m a homeworking retail expert,” Mooney explains. “My husband Javier and I divide our time between the UK and northern Tenerife, so I can genuinely say it’s my specialty.” Mooney passionately advocates for the cooler, greener north, asserting it’s where the island’s best-kept secrets truly lie. She urges travellers to swap the familiar southern coastlines for picturesque harbours, natural saltwater pools, dramatic black sand beaches, charming rustic hotels, and the distinct flavours of local Canarian wine.
The Underrated Capital: Santa Cruz
Often overlooked in favour of its sunnier counterparts, the island’s capital, Santa Cruz, offers a sophisticated urban escape. Mooney highlights its tree-lined boulevards, vibrant modern art scene, and picturesque plazas that exude a distinctly Mediterranean ambience. A must-see is the striking Auditorio de Tenerife, an architectural marvel by Santiago Calatrava, and the bustling Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África, a sensory delight packed with stalls brimming with fresh, local produce and lively bars.
Beyond the city, the unique Playa de Las Teresitas beckons with its Saharan-inspired golden sands and crystal-clear turquoise waters. And for those visiting in February, Mooney enthuses about the island’s Carnival, a spectacle second only to Rio, showcasing the profound pride and spirit of Tenerife.
Puerto de la Cruz: Tenerife’s Authentic Heart
According to Mooney, it’s in Puerto de la Cruz, situated on the north coast, that you’ll find Tenerife “at its most authentic.” This charming city offers a chic yet traditional Spanish experience, boasting a historic fishing harbour, intimate bars alive with live music, and narrow, colourful streets lined with colonial-style restaurants serving contemporary Canarian cuisine.
No visit to Puerto de la Cruz is complete without experiencing the Lago Martiánez, a spectacular saltwater complex. Designed by César Manrique, it features interconnected pools fed by the Atlantic, all set against a backdrop of azure waters, swaying palm trees, sun-drenched terraces, and dramatic black volcanic rock.
Wild Coasts and Volcanic Wonders
Northern Tenerife is a haven for those seeking wild beauty, from its abundant black sand beaches to its lesser-known natural escapes. While Playa Jardín offers a stunning contrast of dark volcanic sand against the crashing Atlantic waves, Mooney recommends venturing further to discover the region’s truly wilder shores.
A personal favourite is Playa Bollullo, another breathtaking black sand beach accessible via scenic banana plantations. “It’s one of my favourites,” Mooney shares. “It’s stunning – dramatic cliffs, black sand, and just one traditional chiringuito, a type of laidback beach bar serving fresh local food and drinks.”
The island is also dotted with “charcos,” natural lava rock pools sculpted by the ocean. Mooney suggests Charco del Viento and El Caletón in Garachico as ideal spots for safe sea swimming, offering exceptional views and a unique connection with the raw power of nature.
Adventures Beyond the Coastline
For the adventurous spirit, northern Tenerife offers ample opportunities for adrenaline-fueled exploration. The Anaga Rural Park, with its ancient laurel forests and rugged ravines, is a hiker’s paradise. Meanwhile, Teno Rural Park provides awe-inspiring vistas over the dramatic Los Gigantes cliffs.
At the island’s volcanic heart lies Mount Teide, a UNESCO World Heritage site within Las Cañadas del Teide National Park. Mooney describes its lunar-like landscape, with its unique rock formations and commanding views of Spain’s highest peak, as truly unforgettable. Excursions to Mount Teide, including hiking tours and “Teide by night” experiences, are available through TUI Musement.
Cultural and Historical Delights
Residing near Güímar grants Natasha easy access to the intriguing Pyramids of Güímar, ancient structures whose origins remain a subject of fascination. A short journey away lies La Laguna, the island’s former capital and another UNESCO World Heritage site. This vibrant city captivates with its pastel-coloured colonial mansions and a refreshing, cooler climate. Full-day tours of the northwest, often including lunch, can also be arranged through TUI Musement.
Navigating and Staying in the North
Getting around northern Tenerife is made easy by a reliable bus network connecting the north, south, and capital. Accommodation options cater to every preference, from the relaxed atmosphere of Hotel Riu Garoe, with its convenient beach access, to the luxurious 5-star Hotel Botanico & The Oriental Spa Garden. For a truly immersive natural experience, Mooney highly recommends The Hotel Hacienda del Conde in Buenavista del Norte. “It’s set amongst rugged landscapes and a dramatic coastline. It’s really very special,” she notes.
Savouring Local Flavours: The Guachinche Experience
A crucial element of any northern Tenerife holiday is indulging in the local cuisine. While Michelin-starred establishments exist, Mooney strongly advocates for the authentic charm of “guachinches” – intimate, family-run eateries serving traditional Canarian fare perfectly complemented by local wines.
For a memorable dining experience with vineyard and volcanic slope views, Mooney suggests seeking out Lomo de Santo, a hidden gem with no online presence. Here, a generous meat platter for four, accompanied by a litre of wine, can be enjoyed for a mere €20.
When it comes to local wines, look out for refreshing Listán Blanco or Malvasía whites, and robust Listán Negro reds. “You’ll often find good bottles in local restaurants and shops from around €6–€10,” Mooney advises. “It’s a brilliant way to taste the island for very little money.”
Mooney’s parting advice for travellers is simple yet profound: “Be confident enough to explore. The public transport is excellent. So, wherever you’re staying, it’s easy. Tenerife is an island of contrasts, and the north rewards curiosity with culture, scenery and food that stay with you long after you return home.”
