Coburg’s culinary scene is buzzing with the arrival of Koi Toy, a vibrant new eatery nestled within the revitalised historic Pentridge jail precinct. This 170-seat establishment offers a versatile dining experience, catering to a range of occasions from quick pre-movie bites and casual catch-ups to more substantial, committed feasts. Patrons can choose from a mix of bar seating, comfortable indoor dining, and al fresco options.
Leading the kitchen is Executive Chef Alex Meimetis, who brings a wealth of experience from his recent two-year tenure at the Geelong outpost of the renowned Melbourne institution, Chin Chin. Meimetis is orchestrating a culinary journey that weaves together diverse cultural influences, all presented through a broadly Japanese lens.
“I have a deep love for Japanese cuisine, but we’re definitely putting our own spin on it here,” Meimetis explains. The expansive menu is a testament to this approach, featuring an exuberant array of Japanese-inspired dishes, from delicate sashimi to flavourful skewers. What sets Koi Toy apart are some of the unexpected, yet intriguing, flavour combinations that are sure to spark conversation.
Examples of these innovative creations include:
- Wasabi-infused Prawns: Delicate prawns are infused with a subtle kick of wasabi, then artfully wrapped in fine strands of kataifi pastry. These are served with the bold flavours of chorizo and a zesty ponzu emulsion.
- Ramen Bisque Fideua: This dish daringly merges distinct culinary traditions. It combines the comforting essence of Japanese ramen noodles with the rich, creamy texture of French seafood bisque, all unified by the paella-inspired use of pasta.
- Vanilla and Sake Cured Ocean Trout: Premium ocean trout is meticulously cured with vanilla and sake, then finished with the vibrant notes of Turkish capsicum paste and the unique citrusy spice of Japanese sansho pepper.
Meimetis expresses his eagerness to see how diners react to these unique offerings. “I’m really looking forward to seeing what our guests make of it,” he says. “Customers will undoubtedly have questions, and we’ll thoroughly enjoy engaging with them. That interaction is a really fun and rewarding part of what we do.”
He has been particularly impressed by the dynamic transformation of the Pentridge development. The former historic jail, which ceased operations in 1997, has been meticulously reimagined into a vibrant hub featuring a diverse array of cafes, a cinema, casual dining venues, and residential apartments. Meimetis is confident that the smart-casual appeal of Koi Toy will make it a popular addition to this evolving precinct.
A significant aspect of Meimetis’s culinary development has been his commitment to catering to the area’s substantial Muslim population. “A lot of people stopped by to ask when we were opening and if we would be offering halal dishes,” he notes. “I’ve been more than happy to accommodate these requests. This involved sourcing from a halal meat supplier, consciously avoiding sake in certain dishes, and implementing strict protocols to prevent cross-contamination. It’s a fantastic challenge, and the more challenges we embrace, the better the results we can achieve.”
The beverage program also reflects this inclusive approach. Koi Toy boasts an extensive menu of zero-proof cocktails, including a refreshing yuzu soda. The traditional cocktail menu, meanwhile, draws inspiration from Japanese flavours and ingredients. A standout example is the Mikan Negroni, which ingeniously substitutes sake for the conventional vermouth, offering a distinctively Japanese twist on a classic.
Koi Toy marks the debut restaurant venture for the Brisbane-based Shayher Group, the developers behind the Pentridge precinct. The design for the space was handled by Studio Y, a firm renowned for its expertise in transforming heritage buildings into appealing contemporary venues. Their previous projects include the successful reimagining of Melbourne CBD’s 1929 G.J. Coles building into a multi-level retail and dining destination.
Within the Pentridge precinct, Studio Y has also designed Brewdog’s distinctive “bar behind bars,” located directly opposite Koi Toy. Notably, there’s no overt “prison theme” within Koi Toy’s interior. Instead, the design subtly evokes Japanese aesthetics, with lighting reminiscent of traditional paper lanterns and layered neon accents that suggest the vibrant energy of bustling Tokyo nights.
It’s worth noting that the Pentridge precinct hasn’t always had a flawless track record with its dining establishments. North & Common, an upscale dining room located within the onsite Adina Apartment Hotel, helmed by former Cumulus head chef Mark Glenn, opened to critical acclaim in 2023, even earning a coveted hat soon after its launch. However, it unfortunately ceased operations towards the end of 2025. In contrast, the hotel’s wine bar, Olivine, has maintained its presence, offering drinks and dining within the unique bluestone jail cells, cleverly transforming the historic confines into a sophisticated space for patrons to enjoy a tipple.
Koi Toy is open from Saturday, February 21st, daily from noon to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm.
Location: T16, Pentridge Shopping Centre, 1 Champ Street, Coburg.
Website: koitoy.com.au
