A Nostalgic Connection to a Beloved Grocer
Growing up, I often found myself wandering the aisles of the original King & Godfree grocer on Lygon Street. Its labyrinthine layout, with its antique stacks and shelves, was a treasure trove of delights: cheeses, meats, chocolates, tins of oily fish, and jars of excellent mustard. These were the kinds of items that sparked my early cravings for luxury pantry goods and an enduring passion for quality picnic food.
My memories of the shop are vivid yet hazy, as it closed for renovation just before I returned to Australia and Carlton. Despite this, the magic of the place left a lasting impression on me, shaping my love for gourmet ingredients and the joy of crafting the perfect picnic.
A Revamped Space That Felt Out of Place
The revamped version of the store, which opened in 2018, felt less magical than the original. It featured a cafe, restaurant, and high-end deli, but the overall vibe seemed a bit out of sync with the neighborhood’s character. Still, I appreciated being able to grab cheese, bread, and wine to take to Carlton Gardens.
However, when this iteration shuttered in mid-2024, it left a gap in the area’s offerings for decent picnic supplies. This meant I had to make frequent trips to Queen Victoria Market to get my stinky cheese and crusty bread, which felt somewhat wrong for a place steeped in history and local culture.
Now, another transformation is underway, and it’s said that there will be no deli this time. Instead, the space will feature a series of restaurants and a bar. The first of these is Garfield Pizzeria, which brings a fresh take on pizza to Lygon Street.
A New Pizza Concept with a Twist
If you’re thinking, “There’s already enough pizza on Lygon Street,” you might be right. But Garfield Pizzeria aims to stand out with its unique offerings. This new spot is named after a cat that roamed the building during construction, and it promises to deliver something different from the usual fare.
The space is minimalistic, featuring three counters: one for ordering, one large communal table, and another along the perimeter. The open facade allows for footpath seating, which is a common sight on Lygon Street. However, this venue feels distinct from the traditional shopfronts and tourist traps that have defined the area in the past.
The atmosphere is nostalgic yet surreal, with yellow lighting and neon signs evoking a mix of Italian and Japanese influences. It’s a design choice that seems tailor-made for Instagram, though it may not appeal to everyone.
A Fusion of Flavours and Techniques
Garfield Pizzeria isn’t about classic Australian-Italian pies or slavishly authentic Neapolitan pizza. Instead, it leans into a post-fusion approach, combining elements from various culinary traditions. This concept is led by culinary director Karen Martini, executive chef Mark Glenn, and head pizzaiolo Sangsub Ha.
The pizzas are made using a method called “Tokyo stretch,” where long-fermented dough is stretched by hand to create a light, airy texture with a slightly spiky edge. The dough is then cooked in a wood-fired oven imported from Italy, giving the crust a distinctive crunch.
While the pizzas are the main attraction, there are a few non-pizza options available. These include olives stuffed with a beef and pork mixture, which are fried a little too hard, and a cos salad with a buttermilk dressing that is slightly too sweet. Apart from a simple fried globe artichoke, most of the other dishes don’t do much to satisfy hunger beyond the pizza itself.
A Taste of Innovation and Inconsistency
Despite the inconsistent toppings, the pizza crust is undeniably good. It’s stretchy, tangy, and blistered in all the right places. Each pie is small enough to be cut into four pieces, which you can do with provided scissors.
However, some of the toppings fall short of the quality of the crust. It seems like a few pizzas were crafted with more care than others, leading to an uneven experience. Salt often overpowers the flavors, even on a simple margherita.
That said, there are standout pizzas worth trying. The cacio e pepe pizza bianca, topped with mozzarella, Oaxaca cheese, and pecorino, is a gooey and flavorful delight, finished with plenty of pepper and potato crisps. Another highlight is the Tokyo bianco, which features a bechamel base, crudo-style tuna, shiso, and nori. It’s an unusual combination, but one that works surprisingly well.
Room for Improvement
Despite its charm, Garfield Pizzeria has some areas that could use refinement. The cocktails, for example, are served in plastic cups over ice and feel more like high-school party drinks than sophisticated beverages. While they are sweet and playful, the inclusion of popping boba pearls in a drink like a strawberry-infused chinotto and amaretto cocktail without a suitable straw feels careless.
Another issue is the Australiani pizza, which was advertised with egg but didn’t seem to include any in the final product. What arrived was simply a ham, olive, and green chilli pizza—hardly what one would expect from an “Australiani” offering.
A Fun Experience with Potential
I’m not trying to be overly critical. Garfield Pizzeria is undeniably fun, and there are some stellar wines on offer, including a Radikon pinot grigio that delivers a unique white wine experience.
It’s hard not to miss what the building once represented to the neighborhood and its residents. However, on its own terms, Garfield Pizzeria has the potential to be a great place to enjoy a meal, especially if you’re a fan of creative pizza combinations and a lively atmosphere.
Good Food reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for independently. A restaurant cannot pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
