A Leap of Faith: Building a Destination in the Heart of NSW
The dream of creating a unique destination, a place that draws people in from afar, is a powerful motivator. For many, the iconic line from Field of Dreams – “If you build it, they will come” – serves as a constant reminder and a source of encouragement when faced with the monumental task of bringing such a vision to life. This sentiment resonates deeply with Edwina Bartholomew as she embarks on the ambitious project of transforming Saltash Farm into a boutique hotel in the picturesque, yet seemingly forgotten, town of Carcoar, New South Wales.
Carcoar, often described as “The Town that Time Forgot,” presents a unique challenge and an even greater opportunity. The question looms large: can one truly establish a thriving hub in a place that appears to have been bypassed by modern development? The answer, as history has shown, can be a resounding yes, with numerous individuals and couples taking similar leaps of faith and achieving remarkable success against all odds.
Lessons from Tasmania: The Agrarian Kitchen’s Inspiring Journey
A compelling example of such a bold undertaking can be found in Tasmania. Back in 2007, the town of New Norfolk offered little in the way of tourist appeal. This was long before the cultural phenomenon of MONA emerged, before the Huon Valley became synonymous with boutique breweries, and before Gourmet Farmer catapulted Bruny Island onto the national culinary map. Tasmania itself was not yet a major drawcard for mainland Australian travellers. Yet, it was in this unassuming setting that Rodney Dunn, alongside his wife Séverine, made the life-altering decision to relocate from Sydney’s Inner West to an old property on the outskirts of a town primarily known for its historical mental asylum.
This bold move marked the genesis of what would become The Agrarian Kitchen. Today, the imposing, brutalist architecture of that very same asylum now serves a profoundly different purpose, safeguarding the delicate produce and rare herbs flourishing in Rod’s expansive kitchen garden. Walking through this verdant oasis, savouring the sweet burst of berries and the sun-ripened tomatoes, Rod reflected on nearly two decades spent cultivating his dream in Tasmania’s Derwent Valley.
“People see it as genius now, but it was an enormous risk at the time,” Rod admitted. “There were moments when we were absolutely convinced this was the future. The challenge was that we were so far ahead of the curve, we were essentially waiting for the world to catch up, constantly questioning if we were on the right track.”
Despite the inherent uncertainties, Rod and Séverine persevered, their ambitious idea gradually taking root and blossoming into a remarkable success. “Initially, the plan was simply to escape Sydney and run a small cooking school, to be out in the countryside, expecting just a handful of people to visit,” Rod explained.
From Humble Beginnings to Community Hub
That initial expectation of a few visitors soon grew. First, the cooking school operated from their home. Then, as their aspirations expanded beyond the confines of their four walls, their vision literally took them into the repurposed asylum. “We could see the inherent potential here for something truly special,” Rod recounted. “The immense joy of the past twenty years has been witnessing the rejuvenation of a small town.”
This sentiment is precisely what Edwina and her team hope to achieve for Saltash Farm and the charming, small community of Carcoar. The encouraging words from Rod, shared during a gentle exploration of his kitchen and gardens, offer a profound sense of comfort and validation.
“I used to feel the need to justify our decision to everyone I met,” Rod shared. “But we eventually stopped making promises and just focused on doing our own thing. Gradually, through our work, we built recognition.”
A New Venture in Carcoar: The Village Grocer
The feeling of undertaking something slightly ‘mad’ is one that Edwina readily acknowledges. While they don’t need to second-guess whether others share this sentiment, the local community often expresses their support, whether in person at the local pub or through delightful messages on social media. This community spirit has been further galvanised by a recent, unexpected development: the purchase of the local cafe in Carcoar, which will now become an integral part of the Saltash Farm experience.
It’s understood that a project of this magnitude, building a hotel and fostering a destination, cannot exist in isolation. Success is intrinsically linked to building with and for the community it inhabits. For the town’s businesses to flourish and for the main street to regain its vibrancy, there needs to be a compelling reason for people to detour from the highway. Often, a welcoming coffee and a delicious sandwich can be the perfect starting point.
This month, the narrative takes an unexpected turn, offering a glimpse into Carcoar’s newly acquired Village Grocer. Mirroring the philosophy of The Agrarian Kitchen, the focus here will be on celebrating local, seasonal produce and preparing simple, honest recipes. Rod Dunn’s cookbook is set to feature prominently on the shelves, alongside the delectable homemade meals that will be crafted by Jo, Saltash Farm’s talented cook.
With all plans on track, the doors are set to open just before Easter. Edwina extends a warm invitation: “Come and say hi.”
For those eager to follow the ongoing renovation journey of Saltash Farm, you can find regular updates on Instagram at @saltash__farm. Don’t forget to subscribe to the monthly newsletter to receive Edwina’s exclusive column directly in your inbox.
Edwina’s Country Renovation Diaries: A visit to The Agrarian Kitchen and a surprising new project.
