A Taste of Heaven: Radovljica’s Sweet Secrets and Enduring Traditions
The salted caramel praline, nestled behind the glass counter, beckoned with an almost irresistible allure. “Ooh, that one please,” I found myself saying, my finger pointing towards the perfectly formed confection. Shop assistant Isabel, with practiced care, placed the treat into a box that, to be honest, seemed a tad grand for a single chocolate. But here, in the heart of Radovljica, a charming medieval town in Slovenia’s northern embrace, every piece of chocolate is handled with a reverence that borders on the sacred.
As I held the praline, feeling its delicate weight between my thumb and forefinger, I inhaled its rich aroma before letting it melt slowly on my tongue. The experience was nothing short of celestial. An intricate tapestry of flavours danced across my taste buds, a symphony of sweetness that confirmed my suspicion: I had stumbled upon Radolška čokolada, hands down, the finest chocolate I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting. Its flavour was as remarkable as the inspiring story behind its creation.
Is This Europe’s Best Chocolate Shop?
The journey to this delectable discovery began, unexpectedly, during the global pause of spring 2020. Furloughed from their regular jobs, Gregor and Nataša Mikel, the proprietors of Radolška čokolada, turned their attention to the fascinating world of confectionery. Their fascination wasn’t new; it had been sparked years earlier by their involvement with the Radovljica Chocolate Festival.
Launched in 2012, this annual event draws an impressive crowd of approximately 20,000 international visitors over two days, a remarkable feat for a town with a population of just 6,000. The allure of chocolate, however, is universal.
Unlike many sweet treats, crafting exceptional chocolate demands a deep well of knowledge and a refined skill set, far beyond what one can glean from online tutorials. Gregor and Nataša, possessing no prior experience in the field, sought guidance from Samo Osmanchevich, one of Slovenia’s pioneering chocolatiers. They diligently absorbed every piece of wisdom he offered. Four months of intensive learning followed, complemented by educational excursions to Zagreb, Croatia, further solidifying their burgeoning expertise.
The pivotal moment, however, arrived when they met Riccardo Magni, an Italian master chocolatier. It was during this encounter that Gregor’s vision for an independent chocolate-making venture truly solidified. “After ten years of organising the biggest chocolate festival in Slovenia, the town still didn’t have its own chocolatier,” Nataša shared. “Gregor and I were so passionate that we invested every hour, day, week and month into creating truly good chocolate.”
The couple began their chocolate-making journey in the comfort of their home, meticulously refining their recipes. This dedication culminated in the opening of Radolška čokolada as a proud family-run chocolatier. Today, their shop, strategically located at the entrance to Radovljica’s enchanting old town, draws a global clientele of devoted chocolate enthusiasts.
The Sweetness of Northern Slovenia
Radovljica itself is more than just a purveyor of fine chocolate. Nestled at the foothills of the majestic Julian Alps and a short distance from the picturesque shores of Lake Bled, it has long been heralded as the “sweetest town in Slovenia.” This reputation extends beyond its chocolate offerings, encompassing a rich heritage of traditional crafts and culinary delights.
Slovenia, a nation of just two million people, boasts an astonishing 10,000 beekeepers who collectively produce around 2,000 tonnes of honey annually. Beekeeping is not merely a hobby here; it’s one of Slovenia’s most ancient traditional crafts and a vital component of its economy. The country even holds the unique distinction of being the only EU member state to have officially protected its native bee species, the Carniolan bee.
Further evidence of this sweet inclination can be found within the walls of Gostilna Lectar. This venerable establishment, a traditional restaurant, inn, bakery, and gingerbread workshop, occupies a building that has stood for over 500 years. Stepping inside is like entering a warm, rustic fairytale. Adorned with Slovenian folk art and vibrant handicrafts, it exudes a cosy charm. The gingerbread workshop and bakery, originally established by Jakob Krivic in 1766, continues to operate to this day.
My visit coincided perfectly with a group tour, offering a fascinating insight into the creation of lects – traditional gingerbread hearts. These honey-based dough creations, a quintessential Slovenian delicacy, are traditionally decorated in vivid colours and were historically exchanged as tokens of affection from men to women. Often, a small mirror would be incorporated, allowing the suitor to reveal their hopeful face. With a restaurant serving patrons since 1822, Gostilna Lectar offers hearty, affordable meals.
The menu presents a tempting array of local specialities, including cured meats from regional farms, hearty soups served in bread bowls, black pudding, sauerkraut, and dishes highlighting staple ingredients like potatoes and buckwheat. Due to Slovenia’s terrain, which is often unsuitable for large-scale cereal crops, buckwheat has become a crucial and nutritious staple. This hardy crop thrives in smaller plots, grows quickly, reseeds itself, and is commonly incorporated into dumplings, breads, and side dishes.
For dessert, the menu boasts the 2025 Gold Award-winning gibanica, a rich, layered cake. However, it was the slow-cooked, lightly spiced leg of lamb, served with sautéed potatoes and sauerkraut, that truly captured my culinary imagination. The menu suggested it served two, but the generous platter that arrived could easily have fed four. Astonishingly, it cost less than €29 and was, without doubt, one of the most exquisite lamb dishes I have ever had the pleasure of savouring.
Old Town Enchantment and Artistic Resilience
Slovenians hold a deep and abiding pride in their heritage, meticulously preserving traditional crafts that range from pottery and woodworking to intricate bobbin lacemaking in Idrija and textile artistry. It’s common to encounter artisans practising skills that many believe have long since vanished, and they are often more than happy to share their knowledge with curious visitors.
Wandering through Radovljica’s historic old town, with its majestic 16th- and 17th-century buildings, I was drawn to a seemingly ordinary house by the display of pottery outside. At first glance, the pieces appeared purely decorative, but closer inspection revealed an array of plant pots, charming ceramic owls and frogs, alongside beautifully functional bowls and plates available for purchase.
The front door stood ajar, inviting me into a space filled with even more captivating creations. In what felt like a cosy living room, I met the artist behind it all, Nada Jazbec, a 66-year-old local resident, accompanied by her guide dog. Nada, who lost her sight at the age of 20 due to complications from diabetes, recounted how her world had irrevocably changed overnight. “Within two weeks, I lost the sight in both eyes due to capillary bleeding,” she shared.
Despite this profound challenge, Nada, who had learned basic pottery techniques at school, was determined to rebuild her life. She found a new way to create, using her “mind’s eye” to guide her hands. Working with clay became a source of strength and a renewed sense of purpose. Today, she sells her exquisite work from her home, which doubles as her vibrant workshop, attracting admirers and customers from across the globe.
Nada’s story is a testament to the healing and empowering nature of traditional crafts. In the old town, a day-care centre for adults with special needs also produces remarkable ceramics and artwork, further showcasing the community’s commitment to creative expression.
Woodcraft is another deeply ingrained Slovenian tradition, with a particularly strong presence in Škofja Loka, a town situated about 30 miles from Radovljica. Here, I met Matija Hiršenfelder, an artisan whose work spans from simple, elegant forms to complex, technologically demanding pieces. “Originally, my work was mostly made from whatever materials were at hand,” he explained. “But the unique smell of each wood species completely consumed me.”
After completing secondary school, Matija undertook an apprenticeship in woodturning and wood binding to hone his exceptional skills. He is now an established craftsman, recognised with the Zlata Vitica Award for Special Handicraft Achievements in 2010. His impressive portfolio includes the restoration of 450 window frames and 30 doors for prominent governmental buildings, including the President’s Office in Ljubljana.
Matija is passionate about passing on his craft and now runs regular workshops for children during school holidays. “It’s encouraging to see students become absorbed in woodcraft,” he remarked. “They’re learning new skills, and it’s often the only time they put their phones away. Many tell me how much better they feel mentally after a workshop. I hope some will carry these skills into adulthood.”
The dedication of Slovenians to preserving their centuries-old crafts is undeniable, yet they also demonstrate a remarkable openness to embracing new ideas and adapting to contemporary trends. Radolška čokolada stands as a perfect embodiment of this spirit, a sweet testament to the enduring charm and vibrant evolution of Radovljica, where life, indeed, is exceptionally sweet.
Planning Your Visit to Radovljica
Getting to Radovljica is straightforward. Airlines such as British Airways, easyJet, and Wizz Air offer direct flights from London (primarily Gatwick, with occasional services from Stansted) to Ljubljana, operating both seasonally and year-round. From Ljubljana, Radovljica is easily accessible via a 35-minute taxi ride or a one-hour bus journey. Direct train services run hourly and take approximately 50 minutes. Accommodation options range from private rooms in pensions and walking hostels starting around £70 per night, to double rooms in boutique hotels beginning at approximately £177, based on rates found on Booking.com.
