A Taste of Greece in Melbourne
We’re in a Greek restaurant, so lamb is no surprise, but I’ve never had it quite like this. The menu says “chops”, so I wield a knife with intent, but a fork is sufficient to tear the meat apart. Every mouthful hits right: a sublime balance of char, salt, fat, lemon juice, a tickle of olive oil, a heady sprinkle of oregano. Food doesn’t get more honest. If there’s ever a hush in this lively room, with its polished concrete, brick and glossy, rendered plaster, it’s when people take their first bite of this luscious lamb and fall into a swoon.
Chef Nick Deligiannis is cooking the cuisine of his origins for the first time in a career that includes early training at fine-dining Jacques Reymond and being named The Age Good Food Guide’s Young Chef of the Year 2023 while he was at hatted Audrey’s in Sorrento. “The older I get, the more I appreciate family and want to explore my own culture,” he tells me.
Everything is cooked in a wood oven, except for a dessert doughnut, which is popped into a benchtop fryer. The restriction – fire and coals only – is a spur to creativity.
That lamb, for example, is based on a Cretan slow-braise called sfakiano. At Bar Sophia, thick, bone-in chops are placed by the dying coals to gently cook overnight in olive oil, onions, retsina, and lamb stock from the day before, a kind of meaty, Greek masterstock. The fire is stoked and coaxed for service, so the chops can be caramelised in fierce heat before serving.
Confident simplicity requires layered technique, which is also the case with the house cheese that’s made here every Wednesday (“haloumi day”), then sizzled to order and dressed with lemon, olive oil and oregano, a happy triumvirate that gets a lot of play. Whey from the cheese-making is used to make flatbread, which is topped with wild-garlic butter and cheese. Order it with bright, silky tarama.
If tomatoes are still on, have them and appreciate the sunshine. Grilled baby octopus is served over white-bean puree tinged with fish stock in a subtle tying together of sea flavours.
Bar Sophia, open since December, is a love letter to Greece by owners and hospitality lifers Marco Tenuta (Il Bacaro, Marameo) and Michael Badr (Marameo). Their city restaurants are Italian, but Greek is so hot right now. Also, Badr’s wife is Greek (her name is Sophia); they’re frequent travellers to the old country, and live locally, so had a hunch that this pumping precinct – home to Grazia, Central Park Cellars, Kerabu and Riserva – had space in its heart for a casual but polished restaurant where you can meet for prawns and peppers, snapper and skewers, and learn to tell assyrtiko from malagousia (the first wine tends towards flinty, the latter is more elegant).
How right they were: the restaurant’s 60 or so seats are thrice turned over some nights, the chaos held in check – just – by an unflappable front-of-house team that makes dinner service a rolling party, and Bar Sophia one of Melbourne’s most compelling new restaurants.
Highlights from the Menu
- Lamb Chops: A standout dish that showcases the chef’s skill in balancing traditional techniques with modern flair. The lamb is slow-cooked in a wood oven, resulting in a tender and flavorful cut that is both rustic and refined.
- Haloumi Day: Every Wednesday, the restaurant makes its own haloumi, which is then grilled to order and served with a mix of lemon, olive oil, and oregano. This dish is a celebration of simplicity and quality.
- Tarama: A creamy and vibrant spread made from fish roe, often paired with the freshly made flatbread. It adds a delightful contrast to the other dishes on the menu.
- Grilled Baby Octopus: Served over a white-bean puree infused with fish stock, this dish brings together the flavors of the sea in a harmonious way.
The Ambiance and Experience
The interior of Bar Sophia is a blend of modern and traditional elements. The polished concrete floors, brick walls, and glossy plaster create a warm and inviting atmosphere. The space is lively, with a constant buzz of conversation and laughter, making it an ideal spot for both casual dining and special occasions.
The team behind Bar Sophia has a deep appreciation for Greek culture and cuisine. Their passion is evident in every aspect of the restaurant, from the carefully curated menu to the attentive service. The front-of-house staff is known for their professionalism and ability to manage the high volume of customers without compromising the quality of the experience.
Why Bar Sophia Stands Out
Bar Sophia offers more than just great food; it provides a unique dining experience that reflects the rich heritage of Greece. The menu is thoughtfully designed to highlight the best of Greek ingredients and cooking methods, while also incorporating contemporary twists. Whether you’re a fan of traditional Greek dishes or looking to try something new, Bar Sophia is a must-visit destination in Melbourne.
