Melbourne’s culinary landscape has lost a true pioneer with the passing of acclaimed chef Teage Ezard, aged 59. Known for his innovative approach and iconic establishments like Gingerboy and Ezard, Ezard left an indelible mark on Australian dining. His departure comes after a courageous battle with an incurable neurological condition, Multiple System Atrophy (MSA) cerebellar type, which he was diagnosed with in October 2024.
The cerebellar type of MSA significantly impacts muscle coordination, leading to challenges with chewing and swallowing, visual disturbances, and speech difficulties. This devastating diagnosis marked the end of a vibrant and influential career.
Tributes have poured in from across the hospitality industry, with many chefs and restaurateurs reflecting on Ezard’s immense contribution. Alla Wolf-Tasker of Lake House Daylesford expressed deep sorrow, remembering Teage as a cornerstone of a particularly dynamic period in Melbourne’s restaurant scene.
Fellow chef Shane Delia hailed Ezard as a “trailblazer,” recalling his impact during Delia’s early career. “When I started, Teage … was the rock star of chefs before there were any celebrity chefs. He cooked without fear,” Delia stated, highlighting Ezard’s fearless creativity.
A Culinary Journey: From Apprenticeship to Acclaim
Teage Ezard’s passion for cooking ignited in the 1980s with an apprenticeship under the esteemed Hermann Schneider, who helmed the renowned Two Faces for over two decades in South Yarra. This classical training provided a strong foundation for his future culinary explorations.
In the 1990s, Ezard moved to the intimate setting of Guernica in Fitzroy, a venue that began to showcase his burgeoning talent. It was in 1999 that he opened his eponymous restaurant, Ezard, in the basement of the Adelphi Hotel on Flinders Lane. This establishment quickly became a beacon of culinary excellence.
At Ezard, he masterfully blended diverse Asian influences, a signature style that would define his career. Dishes such as oyster shooters with mirin and tamari, steamed scallops with green chilli and peanut, and his now-famous fried pork hock with chilli caramel captivated diners. The restaurant earned two Good Food chef’s hats upon opening and was recognised as Best New Restaurant in The Age Good Food Guide the following year.
Ian Curley, chef at Baix and formerly of The European, described Ezard as “an original.” He noted, “For all us Britpack [chefs], he was the local who we looked to for what to do.” This sentiment underscores Ezard’s role as a mentor and an inspiration to a generation of chefs.
Gingerboy: A Laneway Sensation
The arrival of Gingerboy in 2006 on Crossley Street marked another significant chapter in Ezard’s career. Situated in Melbourne’s burgeoning laneway dining precinct, Gingerboy continued his exploration of Asian ingredients, a style he later termed “Australian freestyle.” Memorable dishes from this era included stir-fried stingray with green curry paste and coconut cream, and caramelised wagyu beef cheek with rock sugar sauce.
“There wouldn’t be that sort of modern Australian, pan-Asian cuisine without chefs like Teage,” Delia remarked. “Especially in Victoria, where we’ve made it an identifiable part of our culinary DNA.”
Wolf-Tasker recalled her first encounter with Ezard’s talent at Guernica in the mid-’90s. “I went to see what the noise was about and who this young upstart was and was blown away.” Curley echoed this, stating that Guernica under Ezard “stuck out like a shining light … He did really push the envelope.”
A Lasting Legacy: Cookbooks, Mentorship, and Advocacy
Beyond his restaurant achievements, Teage Ezard authored three cookbooks: Ezard, Lotus, and Gingerboy. His influence also extended to venues in the Yarra Valley, Sydney, and Hong Kong.
The closure of his namesake restaurant in June 2020, coinciding with the expiry of the Adelphi lease and the early days of COVID-19 restrictions, and the subsequent closure of Gingerboy in April 2024, marked the end of an era for his iconic establishments.
In a poignant interview with Good Weekend last year, Teage and his wife Tina shared their experience with MSA, raising awareness for the progressive disease. Together, they established the charity Combat MSA, dedicated to supporting individuals and their carers affected by the condition. A sold-out fundraising dinner, featuring prominent chefs like Andrew McConnell, was planned for March 24, intended as both a fundraiser and a celebration of Ezard’s life.
Delia described Ezard’s illness as “devastating” but emphasised his unwavering spirit. “He never pitied himself. He was always positive, even right up to the end.”
Unforgettable Flavours and Culinary Vision
Food writer Matt Preston reflected on Ezard’s ability to create dishes that remain memorable decades later. “Teage created three: parmesan olive oil, which he served with bread as a starter, the oyster shooter, and crispy pork hock, which is still in my top 10 Melbourne dishes of all time. Just thinking about that double-cooked, crunchy pork hock makes my mouth water.” Preston also credited Guernica with helping to establish Melbourne as a world-class fine-dining destination.
Former Good Food Guide editor Rita Erlich praised Ezard’s outward-looking and contemporary culinary philosophy. “He was very open to outside influences, but always put his own stamp on them. He really understood how flavours went together.” Erlich also highlighted Ezard’s understanding of the holistic dining experience, noting that his restaurants consistently offered excellent wine and impeccable, yet unpretentious, service.
The Ezard family released a heartfelt statement honouring Teage: “It is with the heaviest of hearts that we share that our beloved Teage Ezard has passed away after a long and devastating battle with Multiple System Atrophy (MSA). For the last couple of years, Teage fought this cruel and relentless disease with the same fierce determination that defined every part of his life … To the world, Teage was a celebrated chef and a creative force who helped shape Australian dining for decades. To us, he was so much more; a devoted husband, father, son, brother and friend whose presence, passion and determination touched the lives of so many.”
Condolence messages from chefs flooded social media, and Lord Mayor Nick Reece acknowledged Ezard as “a visionary whose creativity reshaped the way Melbourne dined.” Teage Ezard’s legacy as a culinary innovator and a beloved figure in the Australian food scene will undoubtedly endure.
