Orkney: An Island Paradise of Bountiful Seafood, Unique Stays, and Ancient Wonders
Orkney, a captivating archipelago off Scotland’s northern coast, offers a truly unforgettable escape. Comprising 70 islands, with 20 still inhabited, this rugged and beautiful region is a haven for foodies, history buffs, and those seeking a truly unique travel experience. From supersized scallops to ancient stone circles, Orkney delivers on all fronts.
Culinary Delights of the North
The Foveran, a short ten-minute drive from Kirkwall, Orkney’s largest town, boasts a spectacular setting. Perched in its own field, its rear wall is a vast window framing the breathtaking Scapa Flow, a natural harbour with a dramatic past, famously the site where 52 German warships were scuttled in a single day in 1919. But it’s not just the views that impress; the food here is nothing short of sensational. Diners rave about the colossal scallops, hand-caught in the pristine local waters. Priced at £15 for three, they are a testament to the region’s rich marine bounty. Even television personality Lorraine Kelly is a regular visitor, declaring The Foveran serves “some of the best food I’ve ever eaten.”
Further culinary exploration awaits at The Storehouse in Kirkwall. This historic, stone building, which once served as a herring-curing depot in the 1800s, has been transformed into a charming hotel and pub. Here, you can indulge in more exceptional seafood, with haddock and chips costing £19, or treat yourself to homemade sorbet for £7.50 for three generous scoops. Be warned, however, the local beers are as excellent as they are potent.
Unique Accommodation Options
For those seeking a comfortable and welcoming place to rest their heads, Karrawa Guest House on Orkney’s largest island, Mainland, is an ideal choice. This family-owned establishment offers six en-suite bedrooms, each adorned with traditional tartan carpets, reflecting the rich Scottish heritage. Prices begin at £88 per night and include a hearty cooked breakfast, complete with the obligatory haggis for the adventurous palate.
For an experience that truly stands out, Cantick Head Lighthouse Cottage on the Isle of Hoy is a must. In 2021, this remarkable dwelling was recognised as the second-most unusual place to stay in Britain. This two-bedroom cottage is adjoined to a functioning lighthouse, offering unparalleled, isolated accommodation. Originally designed in 1856 by Thomas Stevenson, father of the renowned author Robert Louis Stevenson, the buildings cling precariously to the edge of a 115-foot cliff. The isolation is absolute, but the rewards are immense, including the added luxury of a private hot tub and sauna.
Stepping Back in Time and Embracing Nature
Orkney is an archaeologist’s dream, teeming with prehistoric wonders. Skara Brae, a remarkably preserved Neolithic settlement on Mainland, dates back an astonishing 5,000 years. Visitors can marvel at the original curved stone walls and intricately crafted stone tables, a tangible link to a bygone era. Entry to this UNESCO World Heritage site is £14.
A short ten-minute drive south of Skara Brae leads to another awe-inspiring monument: the Ring of Brodgar. This vast stone circle, comprising 36 colossal standing stones, is one of the UK’s oldest, predating Stonehenge by several hundred years, with construction around 2500 BC. Exploring this ancient site is a free and profoundly moving experience.
Beyond its historical riches, Orkney boasts a spectacular coastline. The islands are blessed with a plethora of beaches, each with its own unique charm. Sanday offers vast stretches of powdery white sand, reminiscent of the Caribbean. Rackwick Bay on Hoy, framed by dramatic, ragged cliffs, is a frequent haunt for majestic golden eagles. North Ronaldsay is home to a distinctive breed of sheep that graze on the rocky shores, feeding on seaweed, a truly unique sight. While the scenery is breathtaking, be prepared for the bracing northern air; packing a swimming costume is advisable, though a wetsuit might be the more practical choice for braving the invigorating waters.
