Tortillas have a special way of enhancing any dish, making them a versatile staple in many kitchens. Whether you’re looking to stretch out leftover steak or fried chicken, tortillas can transform these ingredients into something delicious. By slicing the protein, adding sauce and salad, and serving it all in a warm tortilla, you can recreate a classic meal with a twist.
For those with a craving for high-protein, crunchy snacks, consider crisping up tortillas in the oven and loading them with hummus and tuna. This makes for a satisfying and healthy snack that’s easy to prepare.
If you’re struggling to get your kids to eat their vegetables, try wrapping beans and greens in tortillas. The kids won’t even notice they’re eating their veggies, and you’ll have a happy meal on your hands.
While tortillas work well with a variety of cuisines and meals, they shine especially when paired with Mexican food. This is fitting, given the long history of corn tortillas, which date back over 10,000 years to indigenous Mesoamerican groups in southern Mexico. If you’re dining at El Taco Guru & Son, you’re in for a treat.
The restaurant’s name hints at its focus on tacos, which are the star of the show. Many classic Mexican dishes are available, including:
- Carne asada: Sear the thick slices of fatty picanha beef (the top of the rump cap) in citrus and garlic for a flavorful bite.
- Quesabirria: These golden half-moons are stuffed with tender braised beef, pecorino, and cheddar cheese. Grilled until crispy, they come with tubs of braising liquid for taco dunking.
- Veggie fajitas: A Tex-Mex take on a traditional dish, perfect for solving dinner dilemmas.
Eduardo Ortega, a former taqueria owner in Mexico City, started El Taco Guru eight years ago, primarily catering to private events. In late 2023, he began appearing regularly at Mane Liquor Osborne Park, a unique booze spot.
It was around this time that his son, Eduardo Ortega junior, joined him at work. These father-son outings became so frequent that Ortega Senior added “& Son” to the pop-up’s name.
Junior handles all the chopping and prep before each service, as well as tending the compact flattop grills in Mane’s small kitchen. While the recipes come from Papa and Abuelita Ortega, it’s Junior who brings them to life.
A mildly spiced house chorizo, inspired by Toluca’s sausage-making traditions, is served as mince rather than a cured link. It’s particularly delicious when paired with a tortilla topped with grilled cheese.
On Sundays, the menu features chilaquiles: crunchy house-made corn chips moistened with chicken stock and topped with crema and meat. Think of them as tomato-less nachos with a touch of sophistication.
There are some small but notable aspects of the El Taco Guru experience worth mentioning. The guacamole is creamy and rich, though not as chunky and limey as some might prefer. While the pop-up is housed in one of Perth’s great bottle shops, alcohol isn’t allowed inside.
The biggest challenge is the limited hours. The Ortegas only operate at Mane Liquor on Friday afternoons (3.30pm to 6.30pm) and Sunday lunch (noon to 2.30pm), totaling just five and a half hours per week. Weekends can mean long waits, but it’s definitely worth it.
The corn tortillas come from La Tortilla, a local masa expert, while wheat tortillas are from Mission. Amber Softley and Orland De’Freitas are cheerful presences in the kitchen window. Guests can help themselves to condiments to fine-tune their dishes.
Perky green and red salsas are made daily, with the green being herbal and the red earthy. Charred onions, garlic, and tomatoes are pounded in a pestle to create the chunky salsa molcajete. And don’t miss the jar of chiles toreados—chillies steeped in soy sauce, reflecting the influence of Chinese railroad workers on southern American and northern Mexican cuisine.
Modern ties between Mexico and Asia are also evident. The rub on the non-alcoholic michelada beer cocktail includes umeboshi, a Japanese salted plum. Ortega Senior frequently brings the pop-up to Japan.
Then there’s the Papi Special: a one-person meal featuring Korean Shin Ramyun instant noodles dressed with birria consommé, cheese, and lime. Will this dish achieve the same viral fame as the ram-don from the Academy Award-winning film Parasite? Only time will tell. For now, it’s another reminder that thoughtful Mexican touches can make anything taste amazing.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid for independently. A restaurant cannot pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
