India. It’s a country that has captured my heart and imagination, a place I’ve returned to time and time again. After spending more than six months exploring its vast landscapes and vibrant cultures across three separate journeys, it firmly remains one of my favourite destinations on the planet. I’ve experienced India alone, with a former partner, and as part of a group, and each time the journey has offered a uniquely different perspective.
My very first encounter with India was at the tail end of a year-long global adventure. It was a whirlwind of awe and wonder. The sheer scale of human effort and devotion poured into the intricately carved Ellora Caves in Maharashtra left me speechless. The tranquil beauty of Amritsar’s Golden Temple was profoundly moving, and the crisp, cool air of Dharamshala, nestled in the Himalayas, stole a piece of my soul. Every day of that two-and-a-half-month immersion was an adventure, a sensory explosion of colours, festivals, deep religious devotion, and unforgettable food. The excitement was intoxicating, and I never wanted it to end.
A subsequent, brief visit was focused on reviewing a detox centre in Goa. This experience was remarkably serene and a stark contrast to my previous encounters with India, leaving me with a strong urge to return and explore more.
Embarking on a Solo Journey
My next adventure was a solo exploration, a deliberate choice to experience India through my own eyes, uninfluenced by the presence of another. This journey focused on a more southern route, encompassing Delhi, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Hyderabad. Stepping off the plane at Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport, the reality of my decision hit me with full force.
The familiar chaos, the cacophony of sounds, the pervasive dust, and the sheer density of people – all of it, which I had perhaps momentarily forgotten, now seemed amplified. My senses were on high alert, and I knew this solo expedition would require a different approach, a heightened awareness.
This is not to say that India should be off the cards for solo female travellers. Far from it. However, it is a country that rewards travellers who approach it with a degree of preparedness and a keen sense of awareness. Reflecting on my experiences, I’ve identified several missteps I made, lessons learned the hard way, which I hope can serve as a helpful guide for others planning a similar adventure.
Navigating the Challenges: Lessons Learned
1. The Pitfall of Unsecured Accommodation
During my travels with a companion, we often adopted a spontaneous approach to accommodation, preferring to scout places upon arrival, checking for cleanliness before committing to a room. This flexibility, however, proved to be a riskier strategy when travelling solo, particularly in India, where major festivals and public holidays can see entire towns booked out months in advance.
I learned this lesson vividly during Gandhi Jayanti, a public holiday celebrating Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday on October 2nd. Arriving in the historic town of Hampi, I found every single accommodation option completely booked. My luck turned when I connected with three fellow travellers on the train into town. Together, we managed to secure a couple of rather rustic straw huts in a local family’s garden – complete with an unexpected rodent population. While far from luxurious, it was a stark reminder: always book your accommodation in advance, especially during peak travel times.
2. The Nuances of Dress Code
Respecting local customs, particularly regarding dress, is always paramount, and even more so when travelling solo as a woman. I made a conscious effort to dress modestly throughout my trip, opting for loose-fitting trousers, long-sleeved tops, and occasionally a headscarf.
However, there was an instance where I deviated from this practice. In Pondicherry, charmed by its distinctly European ambiance, with its quaint cafes, bakeries, and tree-lined streets, I succumbed to the heat and wore a cap-sleeved, knee-length dress.
The immediate aftermath was unsettling. I experienced unwelcome attention, including attempts to photograph up my skirt and a direct instance of groping on the street. This experience, encountered alone, was deeply intimidating. The lesson was clear: my dresses remained packed away for the remainder of the trip. Modesty in dress is not just a cultural courtesy; it’s a practical measure for personal safety.
3. The Solitude of Off-the-Beaten-Path Exploration
Initially, I was drawn to exploring destinations less frequented by the typical tourist crowds. While this offered a unique immersion into local life, after about a month, the isolation began to take its toll. Encounters with other travellers were rare, and while I valued the cultural immersion, the language barriers and lifestyle differences sometimes made forging deep connections challenging.
To counter this, I consciously integrated more well-trodden spots into my itinerary, such as the vibrant Fort Kochi and the charming Puducherry. I also began favouring homestays over more anonymous hotels. One particularly heartwarming experience was staying with a young couple in Hyderabad. They enthusiastically showed me their city, introducing me to their favourite street food vendors, hidden gems, and local haunts. Balancing solitary exploration with opportunities for social connection is crucial for well-being.
4. The Risks of Undercooked Food
India is a culinary paradise, and I’ve had some of the most incredible meals of my life there. Unfortunately, my trips have also been punctuated by bouts of food poisoning. On my first visit, I managed two months before succumbing to a severe illness that required hospitalisation and an intravenous drip. While unpleasant, having a companion made the recovery process more bearable.
Being ill while travelling alone, however, is an entirely different ordeal. Without delving into the graphic details, it involved significant discomfort, another hospital visit, multiple injections, and prolonged, lonely days confined to my room. In my experience, undercooked chicken, often from seemingly reputable establishments, was frequently the culprit. Now, I largely steer clear of meat, focusing on vegetarian dishes, with the occasional allowance for fresh fish in coastal areas. Interestingly, India’s bustling street food scene has never caused me issues. Busy stalls are a good indicator of freshness, and they offer some of the most delicious and authentic flavours imaginable.
5. Assertiveness with Transport Providers
When it comes to navigating India by taxi or rickshaw, confidence is your greatest asset. Always insist on using the meter or opt for app-based ride services. Some drivers will attempt to avoid setting a price upfront, only to demand an exorbitant fare upon arrival. While this practice isn’t exclusive to India, it’s best to avoid it altogether. It’s also not uncommon for drivers to make unscheduled stops to pick up friends.
While this might feel like a minor inconvenience when travelling with someone else, it can be profoundly unsettling when you’re alone. Learn to say “no” firmly. If a situation feels uncomfortable or unsafe, don’t hesitate to exit the vehicle and find alternative transport.
6. The Necessity of a Financial Safety Net
India is renowned for its affordability, making it a magnet for budget travellers. Nevertheless, having a financial safety net is absolutely essential when travelling solo. There have been instances where I arrived at pre-booked accommodation only to find it significantly misrepresented: faulty locks, unclean rooms, and, on one memorable occasion, a lobby filled with men watching adult films.
Unsurprisingly, I felt unsafe and chose not to stay. This necessitated scrambling for last-minute alternative accommodation, often at a higher cost than initially budgeted. While it wasn’t part of my original financial plan, having savings to fall back on allowed me to prioritise my safety over any financial considerations.
7. Managing Photo Requests
Anyone who has visited India knows that being asked for photographs is a common occurrence. Sometimes it stems from simple curiosity, other times from a desire for a souvenir image, and often it’s entirely harmless. However, when you’re alone and approached by a group of men, the dynamic can occasionally feel uncomfortable.
Trust your instincts. If a situation feels “off,” remove yourself from it swiftly. I’ve found refuge in shops or positioned myself near other women when I’ve felt uneasy. It’s about maintaining your personal space and comfort.
8. The Importance of Arriving Before Dark
Transport delays are an inevitable part of travel, and I haven’t always managed to reach my destinations before nightfall. One particularly chaotic evening saw me arriving late in Bangalore and navigating the city in the back of a tuk-tuk. As the driver veered off the main roads onto unlit, deserted paths, my anxiety levels spiked.
It later transpired he merely needed a bathroom break, but at that moment, I was on high alert. Following that experience, I made a conscious effort to schedule my travel for earlier in the day whenever possible, significantly reducing the stress associated with arriving in an unfamiliar place after dark. Planning your arrival for daylight hours minimises potential risks and allows for a more relaxed introduction to your new surroundings.
Insider Tips for a Smoother Indian Adventure
- Immerse Yourself in Culture: Before you go, delve into India’s rich history, diverse religions, and complex cultures. Books like Rohinton Mistry’s “A Fine Balance,” Arundhati Roy’s “The God of Small Things,” and William Dalrymple’s “Nine Lives” offer profound insights.
- Embrace Haggling: Bargaining is commonplace in many markets. Be prepared to negotiate, but remember to be generous where appropriate.
- Stay Connected: Purchase a local SIM card upon arrival to ensure you can stay in contact with family, friends, and emergency services at all times.
- Be Wary of Overly Helpful Strangers: While the vast majority of people in India are genuinely kind and welcoming, be aware that some scams are specifically targeted at solo travellers. Exercise caution with those who seem to go excessively out of their way to assist you.
- Hydration is Key: Always avoid drinking tap water. Stick to bottled water or purified water sources.
- Travel with Respect: It’s disheartening to see travellers who visit countries like India solely to create sensationalised content for social media. Exploiting people’s circumstances, lifestyles, or beliefs is not only wrong but antithetical to the spirit of travel. Kindness, compassion, and understanding are the cornerstones of meaningful travel experiences.
