Lebanese Cuisine: A Chef’s Plea to Preserve Tradition Amidst Global Trends
Chef Jad Youssef, a Lebanese native who transplanted from his homeland in 1999, is sounding an alarm about the dilution of his culinary heritage. Having lived and worked in various international hubs including Oslo, Hong Kong, and now Surrey, where he helms his restaurant Lebnani, Youssef has witnessed firsthand a perceived erosion of authentic Lebanese food identity.
“I started to feel like Lebanese food was losing its identity – not only in the UK, but in Europe and even in Lebanon,” Youssef states. He points to social media trends and influencer culture as major contributors to this phenomenon. “Sometimes I watch influencers – not chefs or authors of cookbooks, but influencers – trying to make meat shawarma with halloumi.”
Youssef expresses his dismay with a wry smile, elaborating on common misconceptions and modifications. “When you say shawarma or donor, it’s meat. Or when you say falafel – we know what falafel is, it’s fried, so it’s crispy on the outside, nice and fluffy on the inside, with a nice whipped tahini cream. But now you see baked falafel, or falafel with sweet potato, or falafel with beetroot.” He believes these “twists” are an attempt to cater to a “Western palate,” a notion that, while not angering him, certainly saddens him.
This passion for authenticity is the driving force behind his restaurant, Lebnani, and his recently released debut cookbook, also titled Lebnani, which translates to “to be Lebanese.” His mission is clear: to champion the classics and traditional methods. “I want to focus on the classics and tradition, and make them the right way – how we do it back home, how my mum used to do it, and my aunties, and now my sisters,” he explains.
Within the pages of his cookbook, readers will find time-honoured recipes for beloved dishes like hummus and kafta (meat skewers), as well as falafel and tabbouleh. Youssef is particularly emphatic about his recipe for knefe, a delectable sweet dish featuring warm cheese, pastry, and orange blossom syrup, explicitly stating it does not contain corn flakes – a culinary aberration he’s observed online.
“It’s enough to drive you mad, what these people are doing,” he exclaims. “OK, it’s good to be creative – but don’t ruin the tradition and the beauty of these nice dishes. We were all born with it and live with it. Each time I go back home, I only ask for those classic dishes to eat – that’s what I want, because I miss them.”
Beyond the Mezze: Unveiling the Breadth of Lebanese Cuisine
A common misconception Youssef encounters is the perception that Lebanese food is solely about mezze and grills. He asserts that this view drastically underestimates the depth and variety of Lebanese culinary traditions. “I think when you say Lebanese, people straight away get an image that it’s mezze and grill only, but there’s a lot behind it,” he remarks.
The sheer diversity is staggering; Youssef notes there are “over 200 dishes of mezze between vegan, vegetarian and meat, and they’re quite seasonal as well.” To showcase this richness, his cookbook delves into lesser-known but essential home-style dishes.
One such dish is fraké nayyé, a southern-style spiced lamb tartare traditionally enjoyed in springtime with warm bread and arak. Another is hindbeh b’zeit, a delightful preparation of sautéed wild dandelion greens with caramelised onions.
Youssef also tackles the common confusion surrounding baba ghanouj and mtabbal. While many restaurants serve a smoky aubergine dip with tahini as baba ghanouj, Youssef clarifies that this is, in fact, mtabbal. True baba ghanouj, he explains, is made with charred aubergine mixed with vegetables like garlic, chopped parsley, spring onion, fresh mint, and lemon juice, crucially without any tahini.
A Culinary Journey Forged in Resilience
Born in 1977, just two years after the Lebanese Civil War commenced, Youssef’s childhood was undeniably shaped by conflict. He reflects on how food served as a powerful unifying force amidst the turmoil. “Whatever happens, we still sit around the table and we’re going to eat,” he recalls.
As the youngest of six siblings, Youssef’s parents encouraged his older siblings to seek safety abroad. This left him to assist his parents, deeply immersing himself in the family’s culinary practices. He helped his mother with cooking at home and also lent a hand at his father’s pastry shop in Beirut.
Youssef, who identifies with the “war generation,” remembers periods where school was suspended for months. During these times, he accompanied his mother to the market daily, learning the nuances of selecting the freshest ingredients. “This is where I learned about how to choose,” he says. “To work with good ingredients, good spices, good olive oil… I was born surrounded by food.”
It seems almost an inevitability that Youssef would become a chef. “I had no chance,” he laughs. “Lebanese people, they love food, they have a passion for food.” He paints a vivid picture of daily life in a Lebanese household, where food conversations are constant: “I go home, and in the morning, I wake up, I take a coffee, and my mum asks me, ‘So, what do you want to have for breakfast?’ Then breakfast finishes, and [my mother and my sister] are talking about what they’re going to cook for lunch. After lunch – [then what’s] for dinner… It’s absolutely constant.”
Recipes from the Heart of Lebanon
Stuffed Lebanese Pancakes with Fresh Clotted Cream and Orange Blossom Syrup (Atayef)
“Atayef were always a treat we looked forward to – especially around Ramadan or on Sunday afternoons when visitors dropped by unannounced,” reminisces Youssef. He evokes the sensory experience: “The smell of the hot saj (pan) as the batter bubbles and sets, the sight of the ashta filling being spooned in generously, the syrup dripping slowly over the soft folds – it’s simple, sweet Lebanese hospitality in a bite.” He adds with a chuckle, “We couldn’t resist pinching some from the tray before they made it to the guests. My mother always knew, but she let us get away with it.”
Serves: 6-8 (makes about 18-20)
Ingredients:
- For the syrup:
- 200g caster sugar
- 120ml water
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1 tbsp rose water
- 1 tbsp orange blossom water
- For the ashta:
- 1.2L whole milk
- 4 tbsp white vinegar or lemon juice
- 1½ tbsp cornflour
- 1 tbsp caster sugar
- 1 tbsp rose water
- 2 tbsp orange blossom water
- 200g ricotta cheese (optional but recommended)
- For the atayef:
- 300g plain flour
- 1 tsp dried instant yeast
- 1 tsp caster sugar
- 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
- Pinch of fine sea salt
- 100ml whole milk
- 350-400ml lukewarm water
- For the garnish:
- 80g finely chopped pistachios
- 1 tbsp rose petal jam
Method:
- Syrup: Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan. Boil, then add lemon juice. Simmer for 8-10 minutes until slightly thickened. Stir in rose and orange blossom waters, then cool.
- Ashta: Simmer 1 litre of milk. Add vinegar/lemon juice to curdle. Strain and keep curds. Mix remaining 200ml milk with cornflour and sugar, heat until thick. Stir in rose and orange blossom waters. Combine custard with curds and ricotta (if using). Chill for at least an hour.
- Atayef: Whisk flour, yeast, sugar, bicarbonate of soda, and salt in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in milk and water to create a smooth, pourable batter. Cover and rest for 30-45 minutes.
- Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat. Pour small rounds (about 8cm diameter) into the dry pan. Cook on one side until bubbles appear and the surface sets. Set aside on a towel and cover.
- Spoon about a tablespoon of ashta into the centre of each pancake. Fold into half-moons and pinch one edge to seal, leaving the other open.
- Arrange on a platter, drizzle with syrup, and sprinkle with pistachios and rose petal jam. Serve immediately or chilled.
Hummus Beiruti
“In Beirut, every café and home has its own version of hummus, but hummus Beiruti always stands out,” says Youssef. “It’s the cheekier cousin of the classic. I remember wandering through Basta and Zarif in Beirut as a teen, hungry after school, drawn into corners of smoky cafés by the smell of lemony hummus mixed with sizzling garlic. This version is my own spin – garlic confit for sweetness, charred chilli for a gentle fire. The texture? Always smooth. The taste? Bright, deep, and distinctly Beiruti.”
Serves: 4-5
Ingredients:
- 500g creamy hummus (see below)
- 5-6 confit garlic cloves (see below)
- 1 medium red chilli
- 1 small handful flat-leaf parsley (about 10g), picked, washed, and finely chopped
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- ½ tsp Aleppo chilli flakes, or to taste
- Fine sea salt, to taste
- 1 tbsp lemon juice (optional, to balance)
- Extra virgin olive oil, to loosen if needed
For the garlic confit:
- 5-6 garlic cloves, peeled
- 100ml olive oil
For the hummus:
- 250g dried chickpeas
- 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda (for soaking and boiling)
- 1½ tsp fine sea salt, or to taste
- 2 small garlic cloves
- 2-4 small ice cubes (or use ice-cold water)
- 200ml tahini
- 60ml fresh lemon juice (about 4 tbsp – always fresh!)
- 2-4 tbsp chickpea cooking liquid
- Extra virgin olive oil, for serving
- Paprika, cumin, parsley, or whole chickpeas to garnish (optional)
Method:
- Hummus Base: Rinse dried chickpeas. Soak overnight with half the bicarbonate of soda. Drain and rinse. Boil in fresh water with remaining bicarbonate of soda for 1-1.5 hours until very soft. Reserve 220-240ml cooking liquid. Drain chickpeas. Gently rub off skins while warm (optional for smoothness).
- In a food processor, blend cooled chickpeas, salt, garlic cloves, and ice cubes for 2-3 minutes. Scrape sides. Add tahini and lemon juice, blend for another 2-3 minutes.
- Slowly drizzle in reserved chickpea liquid and remaining ice cubes/cold water while blending until silky and fluffy. Taste and adjust seasoning. Chill for 30 minutes.
- Spoon into a bowl, swirl, drizzle with olive oil, and garnish as desired.
- Hummus Beiruti: Make garlic confit by simmering peeled garlic cloves in olive oil on low heat for 25-30 minutes until soft and golden. Cool in oil. Mash 3-4 cloves for the recipe.
- Char the red chilli over a flame or under a grill until blackened. Peel, deseed, and finely chop half the chilli.
- In a bowl, combine mashed garlic confit, charred chilli, chopped parsley, smoked paprika, and Aleppo chilli flakes with the hummus base. Season with salt and lemon juice if needed. Add olive oil to loosen if too thick.
- Spoon into a serving dish, swirl, drizzle with olive oil, and garnish with parsley and chilli/paprika. Serve with warm khobez.
Bazella b’lahmé
“Bazella b’lahmé is one of the most loved and familiar tabkha across all of Lebanon,” shares Youssef. “It is a true family dish, often the first stew children learn to eat. In the South, in Beirut, in the mountains, every home makes its own version, but the essentials remain the same: tender lamb or beef, a rich tomato broth, sweet peas, and soft carrots. Some families like a lighter broth, others a thicker one to spoon over rice. In our house, my mother always added plenty of coriander which gave the dish a bright, unmistakable flavour. In season, she used fresh peas from the market but for everyday cooking, good-quality frozen peas make it an easy and delicious dish all-year round.”
Serves: 4-5
Ingredients:
- 60-80ml olive oil
- 600g lamb shoulder or beef shin, cut into large cubes
- 1 medium brown onion (about 200g), finely chopped
- 8 garlic cloves, finely grated
- 3 tbsp tomato paste
- 5 large ripe tomatoes (about 750g), peeled and finely chopped or grated
- 1 large bunch fresh coriander, washed and finely chopped
- 1 tbsp fine sea salt, or to taste
- ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tbsp Baharat (Lebanese 7 spices)
- 1.5-2L water
- 4 large carrots (about 300g), peeled and diced or sliced into thin rounds
- 600g frozen peas (or 800g shelled fresh peas when in season)
Method:
- Heat olive oil in a large pot. Brown the lamb or beef cubes. Add onion and sauté until soft and golden, then add garlic and sauté for a minute.
- Stir in tomato paste for two minutes. Add fresh tomatoes and cook for 5-7 minutes until softened.
- Add chopped coriander and cook for a minute or two.
- Add salt, pepper, and Baharat. Pour in water, stir, and bring to a gentle boil, skimming foam.
- Simmer gently, covered, for 1.5-2 hours until meat is tender.
- Add diced carrots and simmer for 15 minutes. Then add peas and simmer for a further 15-20 minutes until tender.
- Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot with Lebanese rice, warm khobez, radishes, pickles, and lemon wedges.
