From Genoa to Hong Kong: An Executive Chef’s Culinary Journey
Fabio Mariella, a culinary artist hailing from the historic port city of Genoa, Italy, brings a wealth of experience and a discerning palate to his role as Executive Chef at the Holiday Inn Golden Mile hotel in Hong Kong. His journey into the world of food began not in a professional kitchen, but in his own home, watching his mother cook. This early exposure, coupled with his father’s own career as a chef, ignited a lifelong passion for the art of flavour.
“My mom always cooks at home and I always watch her,” Mariella recalls. “My dad is also a chef, so I learned a lot from both of them.” Sunday family meals, often featuring simple yet comforting dishes like pasta with a rich meat sauce, laid the foundation for his appreciation of traditional cooking. This deep-rooted love for food has guided him throughout his career, and it’s this passion he shares when recommending his favourite dining spots in Hong Kong.
A Taste of Tradition: Local Delights and Nostalgic Flavours
While his Italian heritage is evident in his cooking, Mariella also holds a deep affection for the authentic flavours of Hong Kong. Among his top recommendations is the humble yet satisfying claypot rice. He frequently visits Tai Wing Wah in the New Territories, a restaurant his wife often takes him to. Nestled in a quaint village setting, this establishment offers an unpretentious yet delicious take on traditional Hong Kong cuisine.
- Tai Wing Wah
- Location: 2/F, 2-6 On Ning Road, Yuen Long
- Contact: 2476 9888
- Mariella’s Favourite: Claypot rice with chicken, mushroom, and Chinese sausage. The restaurant also serves excellent dim sum.
For those seeking an authentic dim sum experience, Mariella points to Dragon Palace. He often frequents the branch in Kwai Fong, a neighbourhood close to his wife’s family. This restaurant retains a charming old-school ambiance, complete with servers who still navigate the dining room with traditional food carts.
- Dragon Palace
- Locations: Various, including Shop 201-204, Hang King Shopping Arcade, 9 Wing Fong Road, Kwai Fong
- Contact: 2429 2277
- Highlight: The traditional dim sum service with food carts.
Global Flavours on the Hong Kong Scene
Beyond local fare, Mariella’s culinary explorations span a range of international cuisines. He has a particular fondness for Peking Garden, appreciating its authentic rendition of Peking duck, a dish not typically found in Cantonese restaurants.
- Peking Garden
- Location: Shop B1, Alexandra House, Central
- Contact: 2526 6456
- Specialty: Authentic Peking duck.
When it comes to Indian cuisine, Mariella finds himself drawn to the vibrant flavours available in Tsim Sha Tsui. While he sometimes opts for street food, Gaylord is a regular haunt for his lunch breaks.
- Gaylord
- Location: 5/F, Prince Tower, 12A Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
- Contact: 2376 1001
- Recommendation: A reliable choice for Indian cuisine in the Tsim Sha Tsui area.
French cuisine holds a special place in Mariella’s heart, especially when it’s executed with simplicity and tradition. He praises La Petite Maison for its straightforward approach and its exceptionally well-prepared roasted chicken.
- La Petite Maison
- Location: Shop 1, UG/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central
- Contact: 2887 1113
- Standout Dish: Roasted chicken, celebrated for its simple yet refined preparation.
Italian Excellence and Elevated Dining
As an Italian chef, Mariella has a keen eye for exceptional Italian dining experiences. He holds 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana in high regard, having a personal connection with Chef Bombana. He particularly enjoys the innovative dishes and the generous truffle shavings during the season.
- 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana
- Location: Shop 202, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Road Central
- Contact: 2537 8859
- Chef’s Touch: Known for its innovative Italian cuisine and exceptional truffle dishes.
Another Italian gem on his list is Tosca Di Angelo, located in the International Commerce Centre (ICC). Mariella recommends trusting the chef’s recommendations, as these off-menu creations often showcase the best of what the kitchen has to offer. The spectacular city view from this restaurant adds another layer to the dining experience.
- Tosca Di Angelo
- Location: 102/F, ICC, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui
- Contact: 2263 2270
- Unique Offering: Chef’s recommendations often highlight exclusive, off-menu dishes with breathtaking views.
The Joy of Brunch and Beyond
Mariella also expresses his love for leisurely weekend brunches, viewing them as an opportunity to relax and unwind. Zuma is a favourite destination for this purpose, offering a diverse array of Asian and Japanese dishes, complemented by an impressive selection of drinks.
- Zuma
- Location: Level 5&6, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central
- Contact: 3657 6388
- Brunch Highlight: A vibrant weekend brunch featuring a wide range of Asian and Japanese cuisine, along with excellent beverages.
His culinary adventures also extend to exploring different regional Chinese cuisines. A friend introduced him to the Shanghai Fraternity Association, where he discovered a variety of dishes he enjoys, including the delicate xiaolongbao.
- Shanghai Fraternity Association
- Location: 1-3/F, South China Building, 1 Wyndham Street, Central
- Contact: 2524 9246
- Must-Try: Xiaolongbao and other authentic Shanghainese specialities.
Even when travelling, Mariella seeks out memorable culinary experiences. During a trip to Osaka, he was captivated by the fun and distinctive atmosphere of the Kani Doraku crab restaurant chain, easily identifiable by the giant crab sculpture adorning its entrance.
- Kani Doraku
- Locations: Various, including 1-6-18 Dotombori, Chuo-ku, Osaka
- Contact: +06 6211 8975
- Memorable Feature: The iconic giant crab signage and its focus on crab dishes.
Fabio Mariella’s culinary recommendations paint a picture of a chef who appreciates the depth and diversity of Hong Kong’s food scene, seamlessly blending his Italian roots with an adventurous spirit for global flavours and local traditions.
