The gentle curve of a sampan gliding across the Mekong River is a sight that immediately captures the imagination. These traditional boats, with their distinctive bows often painted with stylised eyes – a nod to ancient beliefs for warding off misfortune – possess a unique charm. They are the lifeblood of this mighty waterway, ferrying people and goods, and offering a unique perspective from water level.
Embarking on an excursion from the Mekong Serenity, an APT vessel facilitating a week-long journey from Vietnam to Cambodia, provided an opportunity to swap the comfort of the larger ship for the intimacy of a smaller craft. While the Mekong Serenity boasts spacious cabins and inviting common areas, including a lounge bar with panoramic river views, there’s a special kind of exploration that comes with venturing closer to the riverbanks in a sampan.
Our journey took us through the heart of the Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam, a region alive with vibrant activity. We navigated past floating islands of water hyacinth, a ubiquitous presence on the waterways, and observed locals skilfully manoeuvring narrow boats powered by long propeller shafts. The scene was punctuated by the sight of waterside houses and, most strikingly, the imposing Catholic church of Cai Be.
This impressive structure, built in the Romanesque style during the early 1930s when Vietnam was under French colonial rule, stands as a testament to that era. Its belltower, featuring four bells cast in France in 1931, soars above the low-lying buildings characteristic of the delta, lending the church a graceful, slender silhouette. There’s a whimsical quality to its facade, with delicate decorations adorning the arches and window frames, almost resembling a stylised wedding cake – a delightful visual flourish in the tropical landscape.
Stepping inside the church, we were met with a symphony of curved arches and the ethereal glow of a large stained-glass window, illuminated by the bright tropical sun. As we settled into the pews, our Vietnamese guide, Hung, shared some of the church’s history before embarking on a brief, engaging lesson in the Vietnamese language. He highlighted the language’s complexity, particularly its challenging tonal system, where a slight mispronunciation can drastically alter the meaning of a word, turning “mother” into “rice shoot” with a mere slip of the tongue.
Returning to our sampan, nudged against the riverbank, we set off across the water towards our next destination, a place dedicated not to spiritual nourishment, but to the delights of the palate. A short stroll along the shoreline led us to a long, low building that serves as a hub for artisanal producers of traditional Vietnamese foods. Here, we witnessed the meticulous process of transforming rice by hand into delicate sheets of rice paper, the essential ingredient for making fresh spring rolls.
The culinary transformations continued in other areas. Ingredients like coconut and pandan leaf were being expertly incorporated into various foodstuffs. Notably, condensed milk was being fashioned into delectable squares, infused with different flavours, then wrapped in rice paper to create sweet, irresistible snacks.
In a separate room, a large, wok-like metal pan sizzled over a fire. A young man expertly tossed in a generous amount of rice, which spectacularly puffed up as a volunteer from our group helped stir it with a long metal pole. A similar process was applied to dry noodles, resulting in cooked masses that were then sweetened and shaped into individual treats. Sampling these creations offered a delightful crunch and a distinctively Vietnamese sweetness.
Before returning to the Mekong Serenity, we had the opportunity to sample some local delicacies, including snake wine – a potent concoction steeped with real snakes – and an array of other intriguing edible and drinkable items.
This excursion ashore provided a valuable glimpse into the traditional crafts and culinary heritage of the Mekong Delta. It was a refreshing interlude, a chance to connect with the local culture and savour the sweet essence of life in this fertile region, as sweet as the condensed milk treats we had sampled.
The Details
Cruise:
APT’s 11-day “Spiritual Cambodia and the Mekong” journey offers eight days and seven nights aboard the Mekong Serenity. The cruise operates between Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap, with prices starting from $6995 per person. Inclusions typically feature meals, most beverages, and excursions, along with three nights’ accommodation at the Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra resort in Siem Reap and local tours. Further details can be found at aptouring.com.
Flights:
Singapore Airlines provides flights to Ho Chi Minh City, with connections through Singapore. Visit singaporeair.com for booking information.
Further Information:
For more travel insights into Vietnam, explore vietnam.travel. The writer travelled as a guest of APT.
